[T3] Checking Electrical Connections/Cleaning Terminals

[Adriel Rowley]

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> Date: Sun, 15 May 2011 16:21:59 -0700
> From: chazpix at dslextreme.com
> To: type3-vwtype3.org at lists.vwtype3.org
> Subject: Re: [T3] Checking Electrical Connections/Cleaning Terminals
>
> Hi Folks
> Felt compelled to chime in after reading the last few posts.
> Adriel PLEASE before you do any work under the dash, remove a Battery lead!!
> (either ground or +)
> I almost burnt up a Porsche 914 (my Dad's) years ago thinking I could do
> some quick repair of a circuit & not remove the power from the car first.
> Dumb...Talk about going into panic mode. I've never moved so fast in my
> life..don't want it to happen to a fellow T3 lover!
> .
Most times it is disconnected, but good point.  I do have two handy 
extinguishers but hope never to have to use them.  I used to keep them in the
trunk were the P.O. had one, but then realized they are not handy.  Still
trying to find a place were they will not become projectiles in a roll over
without having to drill holes.

> A shorted lead will ignite (& take the rest of the harness with it) almost
> instantly. Not fun at all. I speak with experience.
> Get one of those continuity testers with a small AA battery & light bulb
> built in to do your checking. They're great. And safe. For sure check your
> grounds 1st thing.
>
I find the volt meter works fine, and have too many tools already that will 
not fit in the tool boxes.  I like to keep it simple unless really needed. ;)

> Interesting posts on ZDDP...Anyone know if Kendall GT-1 40W has it in it?
> Reason I ask is the Folks at VW Paradise who did my 1776 recommended
> straight Kendall 40 weight.
> This was a few years ago, but they sweared by it. I was concerned about the
> heavy viscosity, but insisted that was their oil of choice for they're
> rebuilt bigger engines. (and they've enjoyed a great reputation here in San
> Marcos for years and years) Still running it in the Square to this day with
> no wear issues. Just curious.
>
Are you in San Marcos California?  My Brother was living up there.  Do not 
recall seeing any Squarebacks in the area. 

> Jim, apologies for not following up with you on the Distributor question
> (months ago)
> Bottom line, which would be the most desirable Distributor for a dual-carbed
> (34 ICT Weber) 1776, with a mild cam (110) engine, in your opinion?
> (running .009 w/ the Pertronix) (love the pointless igniton, but dizzy seems
> to be having issues others have wrote about in the past-stumble,etc)
>
How does this have to do with electrical?  F.Y.I., Adneyis not the best source 
in regards to non-stock and just recently had a disclaimer.  I.I.W.M., I would 
ask P.A. (sploogmeister), especially if you are located in the San Diego area 
as very helpful and does have good sources for parts.  A friend, so may be biased.
;)

> And I have a way to clean those electrical contacts easily Gang. Not
> mechanically though.
> Jim's correct here. Please Folks don't use steel wool! Not good. The last
> thing you want under the dash is bits and pieces of electrically conductive
> material looking (lurking?) to cause serious trouble somewhere (shorting
> vital connections!) somehow... sometime...at the worst possible moment
> (remember steel wool IS fine, uninsulated, steel wires ;)
>
I use a brass bush.

> Ok everyone here it is. My cherished Secret. I'm giving it to you guys
> gratis, 'cause I LOVE this forum!
> (sorry it's bit long, so grab an adult beverage & enjoy ;)
>
> Go to Home Depot. (or local hardware store/Home Improvement Center) ( I know
> for sure most Home Depot's carry it-call them anyway) and find (that's the
> hard part-not all HIC's stock it)
> "Klean Strip" (name brand) "Phosphoric Strip & Etch". (has a bright yellow
> label on white plastic bottle) The color of the solution is a light green. $
> 17.99 a gallon IIRC.
> Pick up a pair of heavy-duty rubber gloves too. And a small natural-fiber
> paint brush. And a plastic container. And a pair of goggles.
>
> Yes, it's a moderate concentration of Phosphoric Acid and emulsifying agents
> (soapy) (otherwise sometimes touted as Driveway cleaner as well)
> and sounds intimidating, but it's not.
> BUT PLEASE you guys I don't want to be responsible for any accidents, so be
> safe with this solution if you try it. ALWAYS wear the gloves and eye
> protection.

I have used it, and is a bit hard on the skin.  I have trouble with gloves, so
I rinse often instead (even at gas stations when I get a bit of gasoline on my 
hand I just stick my hands in the wash water).  Will not hurt unless have 
contact for couple days.  

> Now, it's not nearly strong enough to melt your fingers off, so don't panic
> if a drop or two gets on your skin. Just rinse it off with water.
> Keep a hose nearby. Good rule is, if in doubt, rinse it off. Keep it away
> from the little ones and pets.
> Without hesitation, this is absolutely the best method for cleaning metals
> (and other stuff) I've used in my restorations.You will be amazed at what it
> can do.
>
I have used phosphoric acid many times, and love the results.

> Most of the time I mix it 1:1 with water. (one part Klean Strip, one part
> water) Pour the H20 into your container 1st, then add the acid. (not the
> other way around)
> The size of the vessel depends on how big of a part/piece you want to
> clean. For the electrical, use a shot-glass sized cup with maybe 1/2 oz of
> liquid or so.
> (if you're under the dash, throw some old towels on your seats/carpet/etc,
> to keep any little flicked droplets from getting on stuff) (Don't forget Eye
> protection!)
> Each wire (or a couple at a time) terminal can be bathed in this solution,
> in the little cup, for 10-20 mins or so. Don't worry, it won't adversly
> affect the insulation on the wires.
> Stubborn areas can be scrubbed with a toothbrush or detail brush while
> pickling-(the technical name for this).
>
> Rinse everything well with plain water. (Wrap the wires in paper towels or
> rags while rinsing works well)
> (I like to use an old 409 spray bottle with just plain water as you can
> control the spray from a stream to a mist depending on the piece being
> cleaned)
>
> Dry completely. (compressed air is nice) You're finished. Nothing but
> bright, yellow, clean brass. No residual anything to cause issues.The
> terminal will look like it was just stamped. You guys won't believe how nice
> brass connectors can come back to life (no matter how rotten they look) both
> functionally and cosmetically using this simple method (they can also be
> zinc plated after this cleaning to match OEM antique auto factory
> look/specs)
> The beauty of cleaning with this particular acid is that it will clean those
> normally inaccessable areas completely. Down to the bare substrate metal.
> Free of oils as well.
>
> So now, take a second close look at the wire(s) (multiple strands) coming
> out of the terminal-(because they will all be clean too) are they loose?
> need recrimping? A few strands poking out?The acid will have dissolved any
> crusty oxidation in and around each strand of wire. So it may have been
> tight before (dirty)-and now it's loose-(clean) hmmmm...
> If in doubt at all, now's the time to solder that puppy. Make sure it's both
> mechanically AND electrically tight & conductive. Remove the wire from the
> terminal (carefully) & cut & strip off 1/4 inch or so if need be. Try not to
> damage the connector if possible. Like I mentioned, they're brass. We really
> DON'T want to use ANY newer-type connectors at all. They're not made from
> brass anymore! Notice the difference between one of our originals , and a
> Radio Shack replacement- ours are stiff and solid. RS's are soft and weak
> and thin. (made from soft copper/tin mix which is NOT the same as our
> stamped brass ones in any way, shape, matter, or form) (I have a ton of OEM
> VW connectors if you guys ever need them BTW)
>
> Anyways you might want to add a dab of light grease after it's connected
> where it's supposed to be. Or if you're so inclined, electrical terminal
> sealer spray is awesome.
> It's a Helluva lot of work, but done once, done right, you'll never, have to
> ever, rework your electrical system. Guaranteed.
>
> Also this process is correct for steel parts. It will (slowly) dissolve the
> oxidation (rust) from steel or cast iron (and also the anodizing from
> Aluminum) all the way down to the various base metals on a molecular level.
> (Clinically clean)
> Technically it's the most efficient way to strip oxidation (Pickling) Works
> in lap joints and between spot welds, hidden crevices, etc. where
> sandblasting or any other stripping method fails to ever address those
> areas. Really the best way to strip IMHO.
>
It will not do well with the braided ground straps.  Turned mine a gray green.

> And you should see what it does for tile & chrome :)
>
Will try it on chrome: here near the ocean rust gets into everything including
chrome.

> That's my 2 cts for a rainy Sunday.
>
And worth every penny. ;)


Thank you,
Adriel