[T3] Undercoat question

[Keith Park]

I forgot to mention, if you use stripper be very careful to not get it into
seams, it will never come completely out and cause the paint to fail.  I
strip up to the seams and wire-wheel off the remainder

Keith


Top Notch Restorations
topnotch at nycap.rr.com 
http://www.a383ina68.addr.com/radiorest/main.htm
71 Squareback "Hothe"
65 Notchback "El Baja Rojo"
65 Squareback "Eggcrate"
87 golf "Winterat"
93 RX7 "Redstur"

-----Original Message-----
From: type3-vwtype3.org-bounces at lists.vwtype3.org
[mailto:type3-vwtype3.org-bounces at lists.vwtype3.org] On Behalf Of Brent
Bottolfson
Sent: Sunday, October 30, 2011 5:31 PM
To: type3-vwtype3.org at lists.vwtype3.org
Subject: Re: [T3] Undercoat question

I recently applied undercoating to my front fenders and touched up the 
rears.  The original undercoat on the rear wells was in pretty good 
shape, I found rust in one 6" section, and replaced the metal there.  I 
just touched up the rear factory undercoating, but redid the front.

For the front fenders:
First, I stripped them completely bare metal.  I had to use some Jasco 
epoxy stripper (it's nasty stuff) to get it all off, especially in the 
corners, then sandblasted.
Epoxy primed.
Seam sealed the joints and corners where the original impregnated foam was.
Epoxy primed.
Applied 3M Body Shutz with the special gun.
Epoxy primed again.
Now painting over the undercoating with PPG DCC.  They're currently at 
the body shop for the final paint, but I did all the rest.

I think it will last a long time.  But, I do like Bob's method of no 
undercoating too.  Easier to keep clean and check for rust.  I'd still 
seam seal the upper and lower corners as that's where the rust seems to 
develop most.

The special gun you need to apply the undercoating is cheap, maybe $15.

-Brent

On 10/30/11 1:24 PM, Bobsnotch at aol.com wrote:
>
> In a message dated 10/30/2011 1:06:31 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
> djsanderson at telus.net writes:
>
> Hi Bob  and Keith
>
> Thanks for the comments - even though it seems that I cannot  spell
> undercoat. I have stripped all the undercoat away and was  planning on
> first epoxy primer and then the single stage paint that  they mixed for
> me. That's the paint I used for al the underside of  the shell itself.
> I had not thought of using the base-clear  combination. Bob, do you
> think the single stage would be enough or  do you prefer, would you
> recommend, going to the base-clear  combination?
>
> Dave
>
>
>
>
>
> Dave, look at the manufacturers spec sheet, and see what it says about
> clear coating your single stage. On my T-34, I used Concept, and had to
wait 4
> hours before I could add a clear coat over it. This is what PPG recommends
> for a bonding time (for the clear I was using), to allow both to grab to
> each  other. Some paints allow you to add some clear to your final coat of
> single  stage color too. You just have to check the spec sheet. I actually
like
> adding a  separate coat of clear though, treating the single stage as a
> base coat.
>
> Bob 65 Notch  S with sunroof and IRS (Krusty)
> 71 Notch (Krunchy)
> 64 T-34 Ghia  (Wolfie)
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