[T3] Undercoat question

[Brent Bottolfson]

IDK Keith,  I know some probably covered the seams as I was doing it.  I 
blasted the corners and the rear seam where I used stripper very heavily 
to get it all out. It seemed very dry (no pun intended), I doubt there 
was any left over.

I don't like to use stripper, it's just that the blaster wouldn't really 
get it off the first time around.

-Brent

On 10/30/11 4:03 PM, Keith Park wrote:
> I forgot to mention, if you use stripper be very careful to not get it into
> seams, it will never come completely out and cause the paint to fail.  I
> strip up to the seams and wire-wheel off the remainder
>
> Keith
>
>
> Top Notch Restorations
> topnotch at nycap.rr.com
> http://www.a383ina68.addr.com/radiorest/main.htm
> 71 Squareback "Hothe"
> 65 Notchback "El Baja Rojo"
> 65 Squareback "Eggcrate"
> 87 golf "Winterat"
> 93 RX7 "Redstur"
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: type3-vwtype3.org-bounces at lists.vwtype3.org
> [mailto:type3-vwtype3.org-bounces at lists.vwtype3.org] On Behalf Of Brent
> Bottolfson
> Sent: Sunday, October 30, 2011 5:31 PM
> To: type3-vwtype3.org at lists.vwtype3.org
> Subject: Re: [T3] Undercoat question
>
> I recently applied undercoating to my front fenders and touched up the
> rears.  The original undercoat on the rear wells was in pretty good
> shape, I found rust in one 6" section, and replaced the metal there.  I
> just touched up the rear factory undercoating, but redid the front.
>
> For the front fenders:
> First, I stripped them completely bare metal.  I had to use some Jasco
> epoxy stripper (it's nasty stuff) to get it all off, especially in the
> corners, then sandblasted.
> Epoxy primed.
> Seam sealed the joints and corners where the original impregnated foam was.
> Epoxy primed.
> Applied 3M Body Shutz with the special gun.
> Epoxy primed again.
> Now painting over the undercoating with PPG DCC.  They're currently at
> the body shop for the final paint, but I did all the rest.
>
> I think it will last a long time.  But, I do like Bob's method of no
> undercoating too.  Easier to keep clean and check for rust.  I'd still
> seam seal the upper and lower corners as that's where the rust seems to
> develop most.
>
> The special gun you need to apply the undercoating is cheap, maybe $15.
>
> -Brent
>
> On 10/30/11 1:24 PM, Bobsnotch at aol.com wrote:
>> In a message dated 10/30/2011 1:06:31 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
>> djsanderson at telus.net writes:
>>
>> Hi Bob  and Keith
>>
>> Thanks for the comments - even though it seems that I cannot  spell
>> undercoat. I have stripped all the undercoat away and was  planning on
>> first epoxy primer and then the single stage paint that  they mixed for
>> me. That's the paint I used for al the underside of  the shell itself.
>> I had not thought of using the base-clear  combination. Bob, do you
>> think the single stage would be enough or  do you prefer, would you
>> recommend, going to the base-clear  combination?
>>
>> Dave
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Dave, look at the manufacturers spec sheet, and see what it says about
>> clear coating your single stage. On my T-34, I used Concept, and had to
> wait 4
>> hours before I could add a clear coat over it. This is what PPG recommends
>> for a bonding time (for the clear I was using), to allow both to grab to
>> each  other. Some paints allow you to add some clear to your final coat of
>> single  stage color too. You just have to check the spec sheet. I actually
> like
>> adding a  separate coat of clear though, treating the single stage as a
>> base coat.
>>
>> Bob 65 Notch  S with sunroof and IRS (Krusty)
>> 71 Notch (Krunchy)
>> 64 T-34 Ghia  (Wolfie)
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