[T3] Started after seven years, now what?

[Jacob Adam Schroeder]

So just to give an update and to seek additional help, this is where I am
now:

The car still starts up (first crank, usually), but it is a challenge to
keep it idling. It sounds like it is running on all 4, with the occasional
miss and the engine eventually slows down until it dies.  I can give it
some gas, which works to warm it up.  If I give it just a little gas, it
usually stalls out and dies.  If I floor it and keep the gas at
mid-throttle, it revs nicely and idles just fine at that high RPM (no
misses).

After warming it up, I've had it idle for a minute or so, whereby I shut it
down myself.  I have got this to only occur once or twice.

This is what I've done since I started work on the engine:
 - Replaced every fuel line
 - Replaced spark plugs
 - Checked valve clearances (all were still good from 7 years ago)

I'm curious if my idle problems now are due to timing (which I find
difficult to adjust without a steady idle) or something else
(loose/corroded ground).  I'm hoping I can get some advice on how best to
troubleshoot this issue.  The valves/timing were spot on 7 years ago, so I
was glad to see the valves still correct and am curious if the timing
really could have changed just by sitting in a garage.

Any advice or troubleshooting steps would be greatly appreciated.  Thank
you,

Jacob


On Mon, Aug 20, 2012 at 9:20 AM, Jim Adney <jadney at vwtype3.org> wrote:

> On 20 Aug 2012 at 7:33, Jacob Adam Schroeder wrote:
>
> > Last night I cranked her over for the first time (using a
> > new battery) and . . . sure enough, she fired right up.
>
> > Now what?
>
> Let it run a little longer, running at various rpms, until it's well
> warmed up. Then change the oil and lube the 4 zerks on the front
> beam. If you just changed the oil, check the brakes and drive it a
> bit, if possible, then change the oil a second time.
>
> For oil, I've found that I can buy diesel engine oil that meets
> earlier (better for us) gasoline engine ratings. Look for 15W-30
> diesel oil that also meets (look on the back) the SL, IIRC, rating.
> This stuff is actually pretty cheap if you buy generic in a 2 gal
> jug. I think I just paid $18 for 2 gal.
>
> As a basic check that the FI system is hooked up correctly, verify
> that you hear a relay click when you turn the kay ON and then a
> second click ~1 second later.
>
> The first maintenance thing you should probably do would be to fix
> the most likely broken overflow hose on your gas tank. For your '72
> the kits cost $30 from me. This will keep dirt and water out of your
> gas tank.
>
> The Pertronix should be fine, but check the timing anyway, and note
> that the '72 requires a special timing proceedure which can ONLY be
> found in the brown Bentley manual. Follow it carefully.
>
> With the engine warmed up after a drive, check the voltage at the
> battery with the engine running at medium rpm. It should be 14.1-14.4
> V. If it is lower than 13.5 V, you NEED a new voltage regulator. This
> is a common failure item that often gets overlooked. Low voltage will
> give poor (overly rich) running and terrible gas mileage.
>
> Good luck and happy to have you back,
>
> --
> *******************************
> Jim Adney, jadney at vwtype3.org
> Madison, Wisconsin, USA
> *******************************
>
> _______________________________________________
> VWType3.Org mailing list - type3 at vwtype3.org
> http://lists.vwtype3.org/listinfo.cgi/type3-vwtype3.org
> Contact gregm at vwtype3.org if you need help with the list.
>
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: <http://lists.vwtype3.org/private.cgi/type3-vwtype3.org/attachments/20120827/70c87ba1/attachment.htm>