[T3] Started after seven years, now what?

[Mike Fisher]

Clip on an o2 sniffer to your tailpipe and determine your air fuel ratio,
but it can only be adjusted at your manifold pressure sensor with a tiny
screwdriver.

Also remember that this is 40 year old technology and they don't really run
good until they are warmed up.

On Mon, Aug 27, 2012 at 7:30 AM, Jacob Adam Schroeder <
jacob.schroeder at gmail.com> wrote:

> So just to give an update and to seek additional help, this is where I am
> now:
>
> The car still starts up (first crank, usually), but it is a challenge to
> keep it idling. It sounds like it is running on all 4, with the occasional
> miss and the engine eventually slows down until it dies.  I can give it
> some gas, which works to warm it up.  If I give it just a little gas, it
> usually stalls out and dies.  If I floor it and keep the gas at
> mid-throttle, it revs nicely and idles just fine at that high RPM (no
> misses).
>
> After warming it up, I've had it idle for a minute or so, whereby I shut it
> down myself.  I have got this to only occur once or twice.
>
> This is what I've done since I started work on the engine:
>  - Replaced every fuel line
>  - Replaced spark plugs
>  - Checked valve clearances (all were still good from 7 years ago)
>
> I'm curious if my idle problems now are due to timing (which I find
> difficult to adjust without a steady idle) or something else
> (loose/corroded ground).  I'm hoping I can get some advice on how best to
> troubleshoot this issue.  The valves/timing were spot on 7 years ago, so I
> was glad to see the valves still correct and am curious if the timing
> really could have changed just by sitting in a garage.
>
> Any advice or troubleshooting steps would be greatly appreciated.  Thank
> you,
>
> Jacob
>
>
> On Mon, Aug 20, 2012 at 9:20 AM, Jim Adney <jadney at vwtype3.org> wrote:
>
> > On 20 Aug 2012 at 7:33, Jacob Adam Schroeder wrote:
> >
> > > Last night I cranked her over for the first time (using a
> > > new battery) and . . . sure enough, she fired right up.
> >
> > > Now what?
> >
> > Let it run a little longer, running at various rpms, until it's well
> > warmed up. Then change the oil and lube the 4 zerks on the front
> > beam. If you just changed the oil, check the brakes and drive it a
> > bit, if possible, then change the oil a second time.
> >
> > For oil, I've found that I can buy diesel engine oil that meets
> > earlier (better for us) gasoline engine ratings. Look for 15W-30
> > diesel oil that also meets (look on the back) the SL, IIRC, rating.
> > This stuff is actually pretty cheap if you buy generic in a 2 gal
> > jug. I think I just paid $18 for 2 gal.
> >
> > As a basic check that the FI system is hooked up correctly, verify
> > that you hear a relay click when you turn the kay ON and then a
> > second click ~1 second later.
> >
> > The first maintenance thing you should probably do would be to fix
> > the most likely broken overflow hose on your gas tank. For your '72
> > the kits cost $30 from me. This will keep dirt and water out of your
> > gas tank.
> >
> > The Pertronix should be fine, but check the timing anyway, and note
> > that the '72 requires a special timing proceedure which can ONLY be
> > found in the brown Bentley manual. Follow it carefully.
> >
> > With the engine warmed up after a drive, check the voltage at the
> > battery with the engine running at medium rpm. It should be 14.1-14.4
> > V. If it is lower than 13.5 V, you NEED a new voltage regulator. This
> > is a common failure item that often gets overlooked. Low voltage will
> > give poor (overly rich) running and terrible gas mileage.
> >
> > Good luck and happy to have you back,
> >
> > --
> > *******************************
> > Jim Adney, jadney at vwtype3.org
> > Madison, Wisconsin, USA
> > *******************************
> >
> > _______________________________________________
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> >
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-- 
Eugene, Oregon

http://s169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/mr_bojangles500/
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