[T3] Fuel pump rod

Dave Hall dave at hallvw.clara.co.uk
Mon Dec 10 10:05:40 PST 2012


Do you have the electromagnetic cut-off valves?  They were addeedd in part
to prevent hydraulic locks cause dby fuel dribbling into the engine when
parked in a full-tank nose-up situation.

Dave.
UK VW Type 3&4 Club
===================

-----Original Message-----
From: type3-vwtype3.org-bounces at lists.vwtype3.org
[mailto:type3-vwtype3.org-bounces at lists.vwtype3.org] On Behalf Of Brion
Sabbatino
Sent: 10 December 2012 16:56
To: type3
Subject: Re: [T3] Fuel pump rod


While on the subject of mechanical fuel pumps. What are others using as
replacements? The 1966 model year used an external check valve assembly.
Then carburetor models from 1967 on used a fuel pump with a built in check
valve. 

I replaced mine (was missing) with a modern version, which I believe has not
a check valve.

It worries me. Relying on the needle valves to prevent the flow of gas into
the engine; with our heat  and while parked with the nose of the car uphill.

Does anyone know the correct part number I should be looking for? They can
be rebuilt? I have been looking for the correct part and part number for
some time.

Brion S.
S. Utah


> From: jadney at vwtype3.org
> To: type3 at vwtype3.org
> Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2012 10:04:03 -0600
> Subject: Re: [T3] Fuel pump rod
> 
> On 10 Dec 2012 at 5:59, ken2k wrote:
> 
> > i noticed the fuel pump wasnt doing anything and noticed the pump 
> > rod was too short,  barely above the flange. i installed a longer 
> > one and changed the plastic flange but when i turn the engine the 
> > rod doesnt move. i dont understand why that would be. i wanted to 
> > pull the distributor drive gear anyway.....why would it not move up and
down??
> 
> There are only 2 different rods: the "normal" one and the shorter one 
> for beetles with alternators.
> 
> If you had the short one, the engine would never have run. I have 
> heard, however, that modern replacements from Brazil did not get 
> hardened and could wear down slowly, becoming ineffective. That may be 
> what you had. Unless your second rod is stuck in its upper position, I 
> don't know of any reason why it doesn't move.
> 
> As Robert said, it's important that the rod be free in the flange and 
> that it be the right one. You are supposed to adjust the height of the 
> flange by installing extra gaskets under it until the rod moves thru 
> the right range.
> 
> You should also check the rod for warping by rolling it on a flat 
> surface.
> 
> I have a couple of old, presumably OG, pump pushrods here if you need 
> one.
> 
> --
> *******************************
> Jim Adney, jadney at vwtype3.org
> Madison, Wisconsin, USA
> *******************************
> 
> _______________________________________________
> VWType3.Org mailing list - type3 at vwtype3.org 
> http://lists.vwtype3.org/listinfo.cgi/type3-vwtype3.org
> Contact gregm at vwtype3.org if you need help with the list.
 		 	   		  
-------------- next part --------------
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL:
<http://lists.vwtype3.org/private.cgi/type3-vwtype3.org/attachments/20121210
/cb40b4d4/attachment.htm>
_______________________________________________
VWType3.Org mailing list - type3 at vwtype3.org
http://lists.vwtype3.org/listinfo.cgi/type3-vwtype3.org
Contact gregm at vwtype3.org if you need help with the list.




More information about the type3-vwtype3.org mailing list