[T3] Fuel pump rod

[Brion Sabbatino]

None on the 32PDSIT. I believe only the Bus carburetor 32-34 PDSIT had them.

> From: dave at hallvw.clara.co.uk
> To: type3 at vwtype3.org
> Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2012 18:05:40 +0000
> Subject: Re: [T3] Fuel pump rod
> 
> Do you have the electromagnetic cut-off valves?  They were addeedd in part
> to prevent hydraulic locks cause dby fuel dribbling into the engine when
> parked in a full-tank nose-up situation.
> 
> Dave.
> UK VW Type 3&4 Club
> ===================
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: type3-vwtype3.org-bounces at lists.vwtype3.org
> [mailto:type3-vwtype3.org-bounces at lists.vwtype3.org] On Behalf Of Brion
> Sabbatino
> Sent: 10 December 2012 16:56
> To: type3
> Subject: Re: [T3] Fuel pump rod
> 
> 
> While on the subject of mechanical fuel pumps. What are others using as
> replacements? The 1966 model year used an external check valve assembly.
> Then carburetor models from 1967 on used a fuel pump with a built in check
> valve. 
> 
> I replaced mine (was missing) with a modern version, which I believe has not
> a check valve.
> 
> It worries me. Relying on the needle valves to prevent the flow of gas into
> the engine; with our heat  and while parked with the nose of the car uphill.
> 
> Does anyone know the correct part number I should be looking for? They can
> be rebuilt? I have been looking for the correct part and part number for
> some time.
> 
> Brion S.
> S. Utah
> 
> 
> > From: jadney at vwtype3.org
> > To: type3 at vwtype3.org
> > Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2012 10:04:03 -0600
> > Subject: Re: [T3] Fuel pump rod
> > 
> > On 10 Dec 2012 at 5:59, ken2k wrote:
> > 
> > > i noticed the fuel pump wasnt doing anything and noticed the pump 
> > > rod was too short,  barely above the flange. i installed a longer 
> > > one and changed the plastic flange but when i turn the engine the 
> > > rod doesnt move. i dont understand why that would be. i wanted to 
> > > pull the distributor drive gear anyway.....why would it not move up and
> down??
> > 
> > There are only 2 different rods: the "normal" one and the shorter one 
> > for beetles with alternators.
> > 
> > If you had the short one, the engine would never have run. I have 
> > heard, however, that modern replacements from Brazil did not get 
> > hardened and could wear down slowly, becoming ineffective. That may be 
> > what you had. Unless your second rod is stuck in its upper position, I 
> > don't know of any reason why it doesn't move.
> > 
> > As Robert said, it's important that the rod be free in the flange and 
> > that it be the right one. You are supposed to adjust the height of the 
> > flange by installing extra gaskets under it until the rod moves thru 
> > the right range.
> > 
> > You should also check the rod for warping by rolling it on a flat 
> > surface.
> > 
> > I have a couple of old, presumably OG, pump pushrods here if you need 
> > one.
> > 
> > --
> > *******************************
> > Jim Adney, jadney at vwtype3.org
> > Madison, Wisconsin, USA
> > *******************************
> > 
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