[T3] Fuel pump rod

[Mike Fisher]

My '67 square had the electromagnetic cut-off solenoids.  We robbed one off
a bug, when we needed a replacement.

On Mon, Dec 10, 2012 at 10:14 AM, Brion Sabbatino <brionsab at msn.com> wrote:

>
> None on the 32PDSIT. I believe only the Bus carburetor 32-34 PDSIT had
> them.
>
> > From: dave at hallvw.clara.co.uk
> > To: type3 at vwtype3.org
> > Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2012 18:05:40 +0000
> > Subject: Re: [T3] Fuel pump rod
> >
> > Do you have the electromagnetic cut-off valves?  They were addeedd in
> part
> > to prevent hydraulic locks cause dby fuel dribbling into the engine when
> > parked in a full-tank nose-up situation.
> >
> > Dave.
> > UK VW Type 3&4 Club
> > ===================
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: type3-vwtype3.org-bounces at lists.vwtype3.org
> > [mailto:type3-vwtype3.org-bounces at lists.vwtype3.org] On Behalf Of Brion
> > Sabbatino
> > Sent: 10 December 2012 16:56
> > To: type3
> > Subject: Re: [T3] Fuel pump rod
> >
> >
> > While on the subject of mechanical fuel pumps. What are others using as
> > replacements? The 1966 model year used an external check valve assembly.
> > Then carburetor models from 1967 on used a fuel pump with a built in
> check
> > valve.
> >
> > I replaced mine (was missing) with a modern version, which I believe has
> not
> > a check valve.
> >
> > It worries me. Relying on the needle valves to prevent the flow of gas
> into
> > the engine; with our heat  and while parked with the nose of the car
> uphill.
> >
> > Does anyone know the correct part number I should be looking for? They
> can
> > be rebuilt? I have been looking for the correct part and part number for
> > some time.
> >
> > Brion S.
> > S. Utah
> >
> >
> > > From: jadney at vwtype3.org
> > > To: type3 at vwtype3.org
> > > Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2012 10:04:03 -0600
> > > Subject: Re: [T3] Fuel pump rod
> > >
> > > On 10 Dec 2012 at 5:59, ken2k wrote:
> > >
> > > > i noticed the fuel pump wasnt doing anything and noticed the pump
> > > > rod was too short,  barely above the flange. i installed a longer
> > > > one and changed the plastic flange but when i turn the engine the
> > > > rod doesnt move. i dont understand why that would be. i wanted to
> > > > pull the distributor drive gear anyway.....why would it not move up
> and
> > down??
> > >
> > > There are only 2 different rods: the "normal" one and the shorter one
> > > for beetles with alternators.
> > >
> > > If you had the short one, the engine would never have run. I have
> > > heard, however, that modern replacements from Brazil did not get
> > > hardened and could wear down slowly, becoming ineffective. That may be
> > > what you had. Unless your second rod is stuck in its upper position, I
> > > don't know of any reason why it doesn't move.
> > >
> > > As Robert said, it's important that the rod be free in the flange and
> > > that it be the right one. You are supposed to adjust the height of the
> > > flange by installing extra gaskets under it until the rod moves thru
> > > the right range.
> > >
> > > You should also check the rod for warping by rolling it on a flat
> > > surface.
> > >
> > > I have a couple of old, presumably OG, pump pushrods here if you need
> > > one.
> > >
> > > --
> > > *******************************
> > > Jim Adney, jadney at vwtype3.org
> > > Madison, Wisconsin, USA
> > > *******************************
> > >
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-- 
Eugene, Oregon

http://s169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/mr_bojangles500/
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