[T3] Fuel pump rod

Mon Dec 10 10:30:57 PST 2012

New fact added to the mental database. None of mine have them or even a space to install them.

> Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2012 10:23:54 -0800
> From: fisherfarms at gmail.com
> To: type3 at vwtype3.org
> Subject: Re: [T3] Fuel pump rod
> 
> My '67 square had the electromagnetic cut-off solenoids.  We robbed one off
> a bug, when we needed a replacement.
> 
> On Mon, Dec 10, 2012 at 10:14 AM, Brion Sabbatino <brionsab at msn.com> wrote:
> 
> >
> > None on the 32PDSIT. I believe only the Bus carburetor 32-34 PDSIT had
> > them.
> >
> > > From: dave at hallvw.clara.co.uk
> > > To: type3 at vwtype3.org
> > > Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2012 18:05:40 +0000
> > > Subject: Re: [T3] Fuel pump rod
> > >
> > > Do you have the electromagnetic cut-off valves?  They were addeedd in
> > part
> > > to prevent hydraulic locks cause dby fuel dribbling into the engine when
> > > parked in a full-tank nose-up situation.
> > >
> > > Dave.
> > > UK VW Type 3&4 Club
> > > ===================
> > >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: type3-vwtype3.org-bounces at lists.vwtype3.org
> > > [mailto:type3-vwtype3.org-bounces at lists.vwtype3.org] On Behalf Of Brion
> > > Sabbatino
> > > Sent: 10 December 2012 16:56
> > > To: type3
> > > Subject: Re: [T3] Fuel pump rod
> > >
> > >
> > > While on the subject of mechanical fuel pumps. What are others using as
> > > replacements? The 1966 model year used an external check valve assembly.
> > > Then carburetor models from 1967 on used a fuel pump with a built in
> > check
> > > valve.
> > >
> > > I replaced mine (was missing) with a modern version, which I believe has
> > not
> > > a check valve.
> > >
> > > It worries me. Relying on the needle valves to prevent the flow of gas
> > into
> > > the engine; with our heat  and while parked with the nose of the car
> > uphill.
> > >
> > > Does anyone know the correct part number I should be looking for? They
> > can
> > > be rebuilt? I have been looking for the correct part and part number for
> > > some time.
> > >
> > > Brion S.
> > > S. Utah
> > >
> > >
> > > > From: jadney at vwtype3.org
> > > > To: type3 at vwtype3.org
> > > > Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2012 10:04:03 -0600
> > > > Subject: Re: [T3] Fuel pump rod
> > > >
> > > > On 10 Dec 2012 at 5:59, ken2k wrote:
> > > >
> > > > > i noticed the fuel pump wasnt doing anything and noticed the pump
> > > > > rod was too short,  barely above the flange. i installed a longer
> > > > > one and changed the plastic flange but when i turn the engine the
> > > > > rod doesnt move. i dont understand why that would be. i wanted to
> > > > > pull the distributor drive gear anyway.....why would it not move up
> > and
> > > down??
> > > >
> > > > There are only 2 different rods: the "normal" one and the shorter one
> > > > for beetles with alternators.
> > > >
> > > > If you had the short one, the engine would never have run. I have
> > > > heard, however, that modern replacements from Brazil did not get
> > > > hardened and could wear down slowly, becoming ineffective. That may be
> > > > what you had. Unless your second rod is stuck in its upper position, I
> > > > don't know of any reason why it doesn't move.
> > > >
> > > > As Robert said, it's important that the rod be free in the flange and
> > > > that it be the right one. You are supposed to adjust the height of the
> > > > flange by installing extra gaskets under it until the rod moves thru
> > > > the right range.
> > > >
> > > > You should also check the rod for warping by rolling it on a flat
> > > > surface.
> > > >
> > > > I have a couple of old, presumably OG, pump pushrods here if you need
> > > > one.
> > > >
> > > > --
> > > > *******************************
> > > > Jim Adney, jadney at vwtype3.org
> > > > Madison, Wisconsin, USA
> > > > *******************************
> > > >
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> Eugene, Oregon
> 
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