[T3] 10mm Mirror bolt

[Dave Hall]

If you're after a metric thread to suit a nut with width across flats of
10mm (ie, you use a 10mm wrench to undo it) it's an M6 x 1mm screw pitch.

Since it's all enclosed, I guess you'll use a similar USA size tap and bolt
when re-engineering it, so you don't really need to know the metric size!

Someone in the UK went to a glass cutting place and they cut a new piece of
glass mirror tile to the shape of the old, and even chamfered the edge as
original.  Didn't cost much either.  I'm sure there are old craftsmen in the
USA who can do this sort of thing too.  I recall the guy in the market
showing how easy it was to use the special glass cutter he was selling to
cut holes in glass for mounting fans etc - learnt it in jail!  That was his
story!

Dave.
UK VW Type 3&4 Club
===================

-----Original Message-----
From: type3-vwtype3.org-bounces at lists.vwtype3.org
[mailto:type3-vwtype3.org-bounces at lists.vwtype3.org] On Behalf Of Gary
Forsmo
Sent: 02 February 2012 00:02
To: type3-vwtype3.org at lists.vwtype3.org
Subject: [T3] 10mm Mirror bolt

*Several things:

1.  Mirror:
*

   - *After disassembling all the mirror parts  and "soaking" them in
   Evapo-Rust
   *
   - *http://www.theruststore.com/Evapo-Rust-Gallon-P1C1.aspx or *
   - *
 
http://www.gemplers.com/product/160263/Evapo-Rust-Rust-Remover-1-qt-Containe
r?sku=160263&src=25SEPLA&ci_src=17588969&ci_sku=160263
   * *overnight,*
      - * (this is pretty good stuff) I inspected everything.*
      - *The two 10mm bolts (studs)
      *
         - *one which mounts the s.s. shell (with a 10mm nut, external lock
         washer and the triangular piece - with round hole) to the arm (this
is the
         broken one) and
         *
         - *the 10mm "stud" in the other end of the arm, both appear to be
         "cast into" the arm. (checked per suggestion with magnet) The two
studs,
         two nuts, triangle piece, external lock washer are ALL steel.*
      - *I'm doubtful that the "trick", of drilling a 1/8" pilot hole and
   using a Left-Handed Drill Bit (3/16" or 5/32") to "unscrew" the cast-in,
   broken stud, will work.*
   - *My guess is;
   *
      - *I'll end up drilling out, ... hopefully right down the center of
      the broken, cast-in, steel stud  ... and re-tapping it with a 10mm
tap.
      *
      - *Then, buy a 10mm bolt of sufficient length, to go through the*
         - *stainless steel shell*
         - *triangular "washer"*
         - *external lock washer, and*
         - *10mm nut*
      - *... with about 3mm extra length, sticking out of the nut and cut
      off the excess, so the nut, washer, s.s. shell, can be removed.  It'll
be
      almost stock.
      *


   - *Question:  If the threads (O.D./major) of a 10mm bolt measures 5.97
   mm (0.235"), what size (I.D./minor) hole do I DRILL for the 10mm tap?*
   - *DUH, Gary!  I just used the 10mm nut and used both my Numbered Drill
   Index and Fractional Drill Index until I found the one that fit, with
   little clearance, thru the nut.*
      - *The N.D.I. bit that fit thru the 10mm nut was a #7  = .201"
      (5.10539mm)
      *
      - *The F.D.I. bit that fit thru the 10mm nut was a 13/64" = .203" (**
      5.15619mm,)*
      - *.... so, the difference between the O.D. and I.D.(crest vs. root)
      is about .86461" using the #7 bit, and .81381" using the 13/64" bit.
      *

*2.  Does anyone have a suggestion for a (Mid-West or other location)
company that does "RE-SILVERING" of mirrors*

*3.  If I'm ever going to find a correct (Jim says: long arm) RHS, Type 3
Door Mirror, what I've learned by "dissecting" this Type 1 mirror, may come
in handy.*

*Gary "Frito" - '69 Variant, FI, MT*

*Rockport, TX (winter)*
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