[T3] Newbe! Checks in...

jeffrey gunnarson clockdoc56 at gmail.com
Wed Feb 29 15:30:38 PST 2012


Thanks Bob that's great suppler info I'll get on it! SWEET! have not cut
the manifolds .I was hoping the shorties I found+40 dcnfs. Would fit. Time
will tell on that.im going to need the body for that.unless someone else
has done this and had it work.thanks again Bob and group.
On Feb 29, 2012 2:50 PM, <Bobsnotch at aol.com> wrote:

>
> In a message dated 2/29/2012 5:26:24 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
> clockdoc56 at gmail.com writes:
>
> Hi Bob.  Thanks for the re: to start I have a t-4 engine ready to go.  2056
> hydraulic.fan work done for timing access .all the clutch  -flywheel-pilot
> bearing clearance the bell housing stuff is done w/412 fan  adapt.and
> boot.frame mounts off 69 into 67 chassis for the rear engine  mounts.short
> intake runners and low carbs- linkage.using org wishbone style  69 irs only
> no forks@ tranny.just heavy t-4 mustache bar and hockey pucks  at the
> body.
> As far as window rubber I like the trim.better than the cal.  It seems to
> tie in with the pop outs .need the 67 front.rt.fender for fuel  tank
> change.or weld it closed.or could leave it there. Guess that a non  issue.
> And yes i'm looking at a long road ahead.sometimes I surprise  myself-
> sometimes not! I know better than to set a completed date. It will  tell me
> that! Lol.just going to enjoy the process and learn how to ...  Thanks so
> much. Jeff aka Gunnie
>
>
>
>
> Ok, this has helped a bunch. It sounds like you've done quite a bit of the
> IRS conversion to the body, to be able to keep the IRS.
>
> Since you're set up for carbs, that eliminates the need for modifying the
> 67 fuel tank, or cutting into the wall to use the 69 tank. It also sounds
> like  you've taken the time to find the hard to get NLA t-4 wagon cooling
> bellow  parts. That's a plus. : )  Have you cut down the intake manifolds
> down
> yet?  I'm only asking, because they'll need to be at least 1.5 inches
> shorter
> than the  shortest you can buy.
>
> Yeah, you can go either way on the right fender. Some just weld it closed
> and finish body working it, while others replace it. It's just a matter of
> whether or not you can find an early fender that's in as good of shape as
> the 1  you have.
>
> You'll want to contact ISP West for the window seals. Ask Anthony (or Alex)
>  for their new "blocked" version, as that seems to be the best that uses
> the  trim. Note; they have the trim too if you need it. By "blocked", I
> mean
> the seal  has the corners already made into them, rather than it looking
> like
> a big rubber  band. You might want to look thru their online catalog, and
> make a list before  ordering, as I'm sure you'll need more stuff. Their
> prices are a little higher  than say WCM, but they do know T-3's. : ) Get
> you
> hood, rear hatch, gate, and  door seals thru CIP, as they're a little
> cheaper
> in cost, but made by WCM (for  less than WCM charges). You could get the
> side
> glass seal from them too if you  want, but CIP doesn't offer the trim.
>
> As for a "completion" date, I was just trying to find out IF it had to be
> done now, or whenever it gets done on it's own as money dictates. ;-) I
> know
>  from past experience, that setting a "due date" doesn't always work, and
> can  cause unseen problems when you get there. :O I've gotten to the point
> of
> making  "soft goals" that are more manageable, and that allows the project
> to keep  moving along. I hope this helps.
>
> Bob 65 Notch  S with sunroof and IRS (Krusty)
> 64 T-34 Ghia  (Wolfie)
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