[T3] 10mm bolt

Gary Forsmo gbforsmo at gmail.com
Mon Jan 30 13:38:32 PST 2012


*As a "test" .... I'm trying to remove a broken 10mm bolt from a Type 1
mirror.  The bolt holds the stainless steel "shell" to the chrome arm and
it has a hex portion on the shaft, where it goes into the chrome/(probably)
pot metal arm.  I was able to remove the mirror without breaking it, by
"easing" the crimp around 3 sides of the glass.

Suggestions for removing the 10mm ("broken") stub have been:
     1.  Use a left-hand drill bit smaller than the "root" of the bolt as a
pilot hole, and then use a LH drill bit 1 size larger than the pilot hole
to back out the broken stub.  Theoretically, the pilot drill bit creates
enough heat to break the "rusty" bond; and the bigger bit as it "screws"
itself into the pilot hole & "binds", acts like an E-Z Out to unscrew the
broken bolt.
     2.  Use an E-Z Out.  My experience with E-Z Out's is that they are so
brittle and hardened, that they usually break off, before they remove the
broken bolt.
     3.  Drill an appropriate, undersized hole for a (say 7mm bolt) and tap
it with a 7mm tap; and screw a 7mm bolt into the arm to hold the s.s. shell
onto the arm.
     4.  Use a "fire wrench" to (slightly) heat the broken bolt (to break
the rust bond); grab the "stub" with a pair of Vice-Grips and turn out the
broken stub.

Do you like any of the 4 suggestions above, or do you have another
suggestion?

Newman Tool's handy hint.*

For Metric sizes only. Diameter of thread minus the pitch equals the tap
drill size.
eg. M6 x 1 ....  6 - 1 = 5mm tap size
and you thought metric was difficult ;-)

*Gary "Frito" - '69 Variant, FI, MT
Rockport, TX (winter)
*
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