[T3] FI Help needed
Keith Park
topnotch at nycap.rr.com
Sat May 5 17:54:51 PDT 2012
Yea, check to see if the MPS still holds vacuum.
When my fuel press regulator went bad it would spike the pressure up to 40
or 45 when started hot, it was hard to start but ran OK once it started, and
the pressure slowly floated down to Normal over the next few miles.
Keith
Top Notch Restorations
topnotch at nycap.rr.com
http://www.a383ina68.addr.com/radiorest/main.htm
71 Squareback "Hothe"
65 Notchback "El Baja Rojo"
65 Squareback "Eggcrate"
87 golf "Winterat"
93 RX7 "Redstur"
-----Original Message-----
From: type3-vwtype3.org-bounces at lists.vwtype3.org
[mailto:type3-vwtype3.org-bounces at lists.vwtype3.org] On Behalf Of
Bobsnotch at aol.com
Sent: Friday, May 04, 2012 11:19 PM
To: type3 at vwtype3.org
Subject: Re: [T3] FI Help needed
In a message dated 5/4/2012 9:24:46 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
topnotch at nycap.rr.com writes:
When my fuel pressure regulator went south the pressure would spike when it
was hot and first started, and it flooded easily.
Check both temp sensors, especially the head temp sensor, if its bad it
will
run too rich and have a hard start hot. Make sure the pressure sensor
holds
vacuum too...
Would the FPR still hold good solid pressure IF it was dieing? I'm just
asking, because the fuel pressure would still be above the Bentley spec
after 20 minutes, 1 hour and even 24 hours (it didn't drop like a rock after
shut down, and the system is tight). Note; this car also has a 1.5 to 2 year
old new ranger fuel pump on it (Airtex E 2000).
The head temp sensor was replaced with a new one 2 years ago, in an attempt
to get the cold ohm reading in the correct zone. That sensor now reads
2300 ohms @ 68* F, which is the Bosch spec for it. It would try and dip
down
to 125 ohms at operating temp, which was the reason for the 200 ohm
resistor
(it liked to bank heat after shut down).
The IAD sensor would read 300 ohms @68*F too.
The MPS hasn't been cracked open since 2008, and then it was checked for a
cracked diaphragm plate, cleaned up and resealed (had a vacuum pulled on
it, and it held). It was also resistance checked (in spec), and put back
into
service. The epoxy is still on the threads of the rear plug. Granted with
it being over 40 years old, it might have now cracked though.
As you can tell, I'm not really an FI guy. It bothers me that everything
can be in spec, and still not operate as it should. I guess that's why I
like
old Solex carbs on my t-3s. ;-)
Bob 65 Notch S with sunroof and IRS (Krusty)
64 T-34 Ghia (Wolfie)
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