[T3] Fuel System (Tank)

[Mike Fisher]

I have 2-3 of them, so I'll have to take some pictures.

On Wed, May 30, 2012 at 4:38 PM, Jacob Adam Schroeder <
jacob.schroeder at gmail.com> wrote:

> Thanks for all the advice so far.  The trunk seal appears to still be good,
> but the problem was that the person who prepared the car and took it into
> storage for me put a bunch of junk (including liquids in containers) into
> the trunk.  Those liquids eventually leaked out and caused the problem.
> I'm a bit bummed out because my trunk was previously pristine and, in fact,
> it looked almost like it must have 40 years ago when new (it still blows my
> mind that my '72 is now 40 years old).
>
> I'll check inside the tank (by pulling the sender) tonight or tomorrow
> morning.  Hopefully it is still clean inside like it used to be.  Although
> I'm a bit worried because the gas cap was near rusted shut when I opened it
> last week.  At that time, I noted to my horror that the inside of the
> filler neck did not look good either.
>
> The restoration process will be both fun and heartbreaking.  I already had
> a list of projects that I knew I needed to complete from when I parked her
> years ago.  Now time (and rust) has caused a few more that I need to take
> care of first.
>
> Jacob
>
> On Wed, May 30, 2012 at 8:45 AM, Jim Adney <jadney at vwtype3.org> wrote:
>
> > On 30 May 2012 at 6:54, Jacob Schroeder wrote:
> >
> > > While my car was sitting in storage for the last five years, the
> > > fiberboard became wet and this moisture has caused the top surface of
> > > my fuel tank to develop some rough, rusty patches.
> >
> > Sounds like your trunk seal leaked. That's too bad, but it has
> > nothing to do with the INSIDE of the tank.
> >
> > > Because I am going through and replacing the fuel lines, should I go
> > > ahead and pull the tank now and have any rust removed?  Last time I
> > > checked (~ 7 years ago), the tank was completely free of rust, both
> > > inside and out.  But I know a lot can change in that time. If so,
> > > what's the best way to clean up the rust?
> >
> > Pull the gauge sender and look in there with a flashlight. Chances
> > are that it's still fine. If that's the case, stop worrying about the
> > inside and fix the outside.
> >
> > If there is significant rust inside, you can remove the tank, remove
> > the sender and the exit pipe and filter sock, and get it cleaned. Do
> > NOT allow anyone to sell you a sealer coating for the inside of the
> > tank!
> >
> > > There is still 2-3 gallons of (old) gas in the tank, is it ok to use
> > > this or should I dispose of it?
> >
> > I've never had a bit of trouble with old gas, even 8 years old, in
> > one of my FI Type 3s. FYI, it's best to store the car with a full
> > tank, just because this minimizes the amount of air that "breaths" in
> > and out of the tank each time the barometric pressure changes. This
> > minimizes the amount of water that can form as dew in the tank.
> >
> > > Should I worry about checking/replacing the activated charcoal filter?
> > >  I'm sure this has never been done.
> >
> > Your system is probably non-functional due to other problems by now.
> > Replacement would be pointless.
> >
> > Your "overflow" hose, under the RF fender, attaching to the backside
> > of the filler pipe, is probably cracked and worthless. That MUST be
> > fixed quickly. I sell a kit to replace this NLA part. The cost for
> > your '72 is $30, including shipping.
> >
> > --
> > *******************************
> > Jim Adney, jadney at vwtype3.org
> > Madison, Wisconsin, USA
> > *******************************
> >
> > _______________________________________________
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> >
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-- 
Eugene, Oregon

http://s169.photobucket.com/albums/u236/mr_bojangles500/
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