[T3] Stuck wheel cylnders

[Bobsnotch at aol.com]

In a message dated 9/14/2012 12:28:47 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
jadney at vwtype3.org writes:

You have  3 choices:

1) Do nothing. Use SM oil and take your chances. Not at all  
recommended for a new engine.  

2) Buy special oil that meets  an older standard.

3) Buy SM oil and add the additives that the cam and  lifters need.

A forth choice, which I've been following is to buy  diesel oil that 
meets modern Diesel standards (C for compression) and also  meets an 
older spark standard, like SL. To this, you can also add  something 
like the Lucas cam breakin lube to boost the zinc and phosphorus  
content for the first few oil changes. 

I discovered that I could  buy good 15W-40 Diesel oil in 2 gal jugs 
for about $18, which is a good  weight choice and a VERY good price. 
That's a lot of VW oil changes, but  it's also about the price of one 
Brad Penn oil change. Read the back label  to see what kind of S 
rating it has. It won't be mentioned on the  front.




I've been using #3 of Jim's choices. I use standard oil, but add in GM's  
EOS (Engine Oil Supplement) to it. The EOS has the needed zinc and other  
properties to reduce cam wear, and is made for flat tappet cams. Unfortunately, 
 the EOS is expensive ($30 per pint), but then compared to tearing down the 
 engine, and replacing the cam and lifters, it becomes a bargin. Now that I 
have  some miles on the engine, I only add a half a jug (8oz) to every oil 
change.  Eventually I'll look into what Jim's been doing (if you can still 
find that type  of oil in the future), or see about finding a cheaper 
alternative to the EOS,  but for now that's what I'm sticking with. Keep in mind, 
that my engine isn't  like Jim's or Keith's, in that it doesn't have a full 
flow oil filter on  it.  

Bob 65 Notch  S with sunroof and IRS (Krusty)
64 T-34 Ghia  (Wolfie)
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