[T3] Update on Sticking Brake Pedal

[Jim Adney]

On 1 Aug 2013 at 12:19, J. Jonik wrote:

> Yes...rust was evident in the behind-the-pedals area...and, despite
> efforts to seal up windshield seal, it apparently still doesn't seal
> entirely. Not to mention the rust strip I found behind and under the
> fuel tank when I had that out several months ago.  I patched that
> rust, but I think it was caused from INSIDE...like maybe in bottom of
> the inaccessible air intakes?...maybe windshield?   Dunno.  

Unless your floor is rusted out, clogged drain tubes are the most 
common cause of water on the floor. Leaves under the intake louvers 
of '71 and later cars can cause that rust you mentioned. You can try 
to blow them out, or use a long tweezers, or chopsticks, if you're 
good.

> I haven't done a REAL bleed job yet, with a helper's foot.  I often
> use a stick that's just long enough to jam tightly between the brake
> pedal and the seat. (A strong springy metal slat, adapted at both ends
> to not damage anything, would be better...but....)    It provides
> enough push pressure to actually get squirts out of the valves...but I
> have to do this more times than I would with a helper on the pedal.
> But THIS time...no squirts from any valves, front or back...just
> non-bubbly fluid pushed out.  Yes...cap removed from reservoir. 

The cap has vent holes, so it's not necessary to remove it. But I 
usually leave it off so I can refill easily.

By "no squirts from any valves, front or back," do you mean no fluid 
comes out? That would be pretty odd. Then you say, just non-bubbly 
fluid pushed out." Does "squirts" imply fluid with air? If so, sounds 
like you're done bleeding, or do you still not have brakes?

-- 
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Jim Adney, jadney at vwtype3.org
Madison, Wisconsin, USA
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