[T3] Tight exhaust valves

Bobsnotch at aol.com Bobsnotch at aol.com
Fri Dec 27 06:05:58 PST 2013


In a message dated 12/26/2013 1:40:12 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
jacob.schroeder at gmail.com writes:
 
I'm sad to hear (although not surprised based on my recent  searches) that
MoFoCo heads are junk.  Next time I have the valve  covers off I can see
what MoFoCo started with so far as the head castings  are concerned.  I
thought they were rebuilt and were stamped with VW,  but I'm not positive.
Regardless, it sounds like the valves could still be  junk even if the
castings are good (or at least were good before MoFoCo got  them).


 
Your MOFOCO heads are designed and cast in the USA, and that's  where 
they've always been made. They basically copied the VW head, but made  some 
changes to allow for them to be opened up, in both the breathing and size  of the 
cylinders. This was something that the original VW heads lacked (being  
able to be opened up for larger engines without welding).
 
That said, I've got a complete MOFOCO engine in my 65 Notch, that  was 
built on an all aluminum case. The only issues I've ever had with it were  vapor 
locking the mechanical fuel pump, due to the extra heat the engine case  
holds (probably something Keith doesn't think about with his T-4 engine). I've 
 since gone to an electric pump, and I've had no issues since. I've  also 
had no issues with valves getting tight (yes I watch them, and note  how much 
the gaps change) in the 7 1/2 years I've had this engine. However, I  do 
check them with every oil change, and since the engine is running dino oil,  
and has only a strainer, I change it more often.


If you  feel that the engine is running hot, then I'd look to make sure 
that ALL of  the cooling tin is in place first. That tin (while seeming small 
in places)  was there for a reason. VW didn't just add it to make life 
difficult, they put  it there because they felt it was needed. I'd also look to 
see if the  foam pad is in place above the oil cooler so that all of the 
cooling air  passes thru the oil cooler like it was designed to. Also, make sure 
your  thermostat is working correctly and that the flaps are opening. Make 
sure  there are no tears in the large cooling bellows, and that both clamps 
are in  place. I know some of this sounds simple, but you'd be surprised at 
how many  engines are out there with some or all of these little items 
missing or  defective (especially in California). :O  
You might also want to double check your timing, as that has a direct  
effect on engine heat (too much and it'll run hot, too little and it'll run  
hot). If you have FI, then check the fuel pressure as well. These are all  
little things that can effect engine temp.
Sorry, I got into a bit of a rant, but sometimes things just need to  be 
said that us "old guys" sometimes take for granted. ;-) I hope this  helps.

Bob 65  Notch S w/Sunroof and IRS aka Krusty
64 T-34 Ghia aka Wolfie
71  Square-vert under  construction


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