[T3] type3-vwtype3.org Digest, Vol 29, Issue 9

Wed Feb 6 14:21:19 PST 2013

Get the dwell and timing right. Make sure the valves are adjusted
right.

Has your car been sitting for a long time? If so, your battery may
need a loooong sloooow charge to get it back into shape. Do NOT try
to do this quickly; that will just damage the battery. A slow charge
that takes a week but gets to 14.2 V is what you're after. Do this at
less than 1/2 amp; I like 50-100 mA.

Hi Jim, no this is a daily driver and I have two batteries running inline
with each other - bought an isolator but haven't installed it yet because I
haven't figured out how to do it. I've been running both batteries for a
year when I had to buy two and couldn't return one.  I agree a slow charge
is best but I had a guy who stopped to help with one of those fancy
chargers with the digital read out. It read 13 then I started it and it
climbed up close to 14. when I got home I put it on a trickle charger  and
both batteries climbed to fully charged status within 10 minutes of hooking
them up. Since I changed the connectors on the solenoid to switch wire it
is turning over merrily but the startup is delayed and the idle rough. I'm
now going to replace the belt and keep a eye on the charge, but look
elsewhere (recheck plug tightness, mpc connectors, new points, etc.) to try
and find the reason for the rough uneven idle...thank you...

On Wed, Feb 6, 2013 at 1:44 PM, <type3-vwtype3.org-request at lists.vwtype3.org
> wrote:

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> _______________________________________________
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>
>
> Today's Topics:
>
>    1. Single Circuit Master Cyl and wheel cyl kits? Or parts to
>       assemble? (Gary Forsmo)
>    2. Re: FI to injector wires (Bobsnotch at aol.com)
>    3. Re: Generator Belt Tension (Bobsnotch at aol.com)
>    4. Re: Generator Belt Tension (Jim Adney)
>    5. Re: Single Circuit Master Cyl and wheel cyl kits? Or parts to
>       assemble? (Jim Adney)
>    6. Re: FI to injector wires (Jim Adney)
>    7. Re: FI to injector wires (Daniel K. Du Vall)
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2013 11:58:57 -0600
> From: Gary Forsmo <gbforsmo at gmail.com>
> To: type3 at vwtype3.org
> Subject: [T3] Single Circuit Master Cyl and wheel cyl kits? Or parts
>         to      assemble?
> Message-ID:
>         <
> CAN8eaV-Or-cba8npL6Wos8to_o3frqpBtJjd9NBL6Fn1RbczEQ at mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
>
> Jim wrote:
> I have rebuilt 66-on rear wheel cylinders on my shelf, and I have
> plenty of rebuild kits for those, but I STRONGLY recommend rebuilding
> them yourself ON THE CAR. This is a LOT less work and is much less
> likely to break other parts. It's what I've always done on my own
> cars and any other cars that end up here for brake work.
>
> Question about rebuilding rear wheel brake cylinders:
> Jim, when you rebuilt my rear wheel cylinders on your driveway in
> 2010, did you use a special "wheel cylinder hone" mounted to a drill
> driver?
>
> Will you give a detailed description of the hone?
> How it is used?
> Source?
>
> Gary "Frito" - '69 Variant, FI, MT
> Rockport, TX (winter)
> Lake Geneva, WI (summer)
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2013 14:54:30 -0500 (EST)
> From: Bobsnotch at aol.com
> To: type3 at vwtype3.org
> Subject: Re: [T3] FI to injector wires
> Message-ID: <4503.242896de.3e440ef6 at aol.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
> In a message dated 2/6/2013 12:25:36 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
> dduvall at 1peter4-10.org writes:
>
> Is there a part number for them?
>
> Auto Atlanta lists for the "2 pole" boot as R 311 906 102 A. This IS a
> type 3 part number.
>
> Bob 65  Notch S w/Sunroof and IRS aka Krusty
> 64 T-34 Ghia aka Wolfie
> 71  Square-vert under  construction
>
>
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> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 3
> Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2013 14:57:56 -0500 (EST)
> From: Bobsnotch at aol.com
> To: type3 at vwtype3.org
> Subject: Re: [T3] Generator Belt Tension
> Message-ID: <469d.20e0a01d.3e440fc4 at aol.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
> In a message dated 2/6/2013 12:31:46 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
> cscsheridan at gmail.com writes:
>
> Hi,
> I have been having some issues with my 1970 automatic  fastback recently -
> the belt tension seems unacceptably loose. My generator  is 1 year old,
> pulley and belt also one year old. The belt is a Continental  10x1005. I am
> using no shims at all and still have no traction when I try  to turn the
> motor with the nut on the generator the generator just spins  without
> moving
> the motor at all.
>
>
> I'm using the same belt, but I had to use 2 shims in between the  pulley
> halfs to get the tension right. You might try the Gates belt number  3970
> instead.
>
>
> Bob 65 Notch  S w/Sunroof and IRS aka Krusty
> 64 T-34 Ghia aka Wolfie
> 71 Square-vert  under construction
>
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>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 4
> Date: Wed, 06 Feb 2013 14:25:46 -0600
> From: "Jim Adney" <jadney at vwtype3.org>
> To: type3 at vwtype3.org
> Subject: Re: [T3] Generator Belt Tension
> Message-ID: <5112BC4A.13869.192F9AE at jadney.vwtype3.org>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
>
> On 6 Feb 2013 at 9:31, Chris Sheridan wrote:
>
> > I have been having some issues with my 1970 automatic fastback recently -
> > the belt tension seems unacceptably loose. My generator is 1 year old,
> > pulley and belt also one year old. The belt is a Continental 10x1005. I
> am
> > using no shims at all and still have no traction when I try to turn the
> > motor with the nut on the generator the generator just spins without
> moving
> > the motor at all. Only if I use my finger to apply defection pressure to
> > the belt can I use the crescent wrench to turn the motor, and the
> > deflection is a good one inch. If this were a bug or bus I would be
> > slipping and overheating. Not sure what is acceptable on a Type 3 but my
> > car is barely idling at rest and  the generator light is flickering which
> > usually means timing is too retarded or a loose belt to me.
>
> Your belt is a little longer than stock, but it's also a bit wider,
> which probably makes it okay. I have to put a finger on the belt to
> turn the ending with the generator pulley, too. That's normal.
>
> The OE belt size is 9.5 x 1000La. I don't know what the La stood for.
>
> The generator has no effect on idle speed. It sounds like your idle
> may be too slow, so look for a different problem.
>
> > Last night it completely cut out and left me stranded for an hour. Was
> able
> > to start it again only after wiggling the wiring at the solenoid multiple
> > times. When I got it home I replaced the wire connector at the solenoid
> and
> > under the automatic shift to make sure I had good connection. My
> batteries
> > were too low to turn it over gave them a quick charge and they were
> quickly
> > up to 13.6 after start up. on the charger they show fully charged within
> 5
> > minutes of hook up. replaced the spark plugs two days ago and rechecked
> > that all was good there. Found a fairly big dimple on the points and less
> > clearance than I wanted so I filed that down and reinstalled.
>
> Get the dwell and timing right. Make sure the valves are adjusted
> right.
>
> Has your car been sitting for a long time? If so, your battery may
> need a loooong sloooow charge to get it back into shape. Do NOT try
> to do this quickly; that will just damage the battery. A slow charge
> that takes a week but gets to 14.2 V is what you're after. Do this at
> less than 1/2 amp; I like 50-100 mA.
>
>
> --
> *******************************
> Jim Adney, jadney at vwtype3.org
> Madison, Wisconsin, USA
> *******************************
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 5
> Date: Wed, 06 Feb 2013 14:25:47 -0600
> From: "Jim Adney" <jadney at vwtype3.org>
> To: type3 at vwtype3.org
> Subject: Re: [T3] Single Circuit Master Cyl and wheel cyl kits? Or
>         parts to        assemble?
> Message-ID: <5112BC4B.32207.192FA4A at jadney.vwtype3.org>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
>
> On 6 Feb 2013 at 11:58, Gary Forsmo wrote:
>
> > Question about rebuilding rear wheel brake cylinders:
> > Jim, when you rebuilt my rear wheel cylinders on your driveway in
> > 2010, did you use a special "wheel cylinder hone" mounted to a drill
> > driver?
> >
> > Will you give a detailed description of the hone?
> > How it is used?
> > Source?
>
> It's just a couple of fine stones on the end of spring loaded arms,
> with a flexible shaft to be driven by an electric drill motor. I
> lubricate the cylinder with brake fluid, stick the hone in there,
> spin it up, and work it back and forth for 10-15 seconds.
>
> I probably got mine at JC Whitney 40+ years ago. I'm sure you can buy
> them at most any FLAPS. Should be less than $10, or surely less than
> $20. I've probably worn out 3 sets of stones over the years, but
> replacments are cheap.
>
>
>
> --
> *******************************
> Jim Adney, jadney at vwtype3.org
> Madison, Wisconsin, USA
> *******************************
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 6
> Date: Wed, 06 Feb 2013 14:25:46 -0600
> From: "Jim Adney" <jadney at vwtype3.org>
> To: type3 at vwtype3.org
> Subject: Re: [T3] FI to injector wires
> Message-ID: <5112BC4A.28490.192F912 at jadney.vwtype3.org>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
>
> On 6 Feb 2013 at 14:54, Bobsnotch at aol.com wrote:
>
> > In a message dated 2/6/2013 12:25:36 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
> > dduvall at 1peter4-10.org writes:
> >
> > Is there a part number for them?
> >
> > Auto Atlanta lists for the "2 pole" boot as R 311 906 102 A. This IS a
> > type 3 part number.
>
> West Coast Metric used to carry these. I may still have some of them.
>
>
> --
> *******************************
> Jim Adney, jadney at vwtype3.org
> Madison, Wisconsin, USA
> *******************************
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 7
> Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2013 20:49:45 +0000
> From: "Daniel K. Du Vall" <dduvall at 1peter4-10.org>
> To: "type3 at vwtype3.org" <type3 at vwtype3.org>
> Subject: Re: [T3] FI to injector wires
> Message-ID:
>         <09343C2AF16F4241BB93BD1B5BB44B8433DAB1ED at TEXAS.1peter4-10.org>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
> I found some and placed an order . I used the number that a Jon Stiles
> posted.
>
> Thanks all.
>
> Daniel Du Vall
> http://1peter4-10.org
> http://volkswageninsanity.us
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: type3-vwtype3.org-bounces at lists.vwtype3.org [mailto:
> type3-vwtype3.org-bounces at lists.vwtype3.org] On Behalf Of Jim Adney
> Sent: Wednesday, February 06, 2013 1:26 PM
> To: type3 at vwtype3.org
> Subject: Re: [T3] FI to injector wires
>
> On 6 Feb 2013 at 14:54, Bobsnotch at aol.com wrote:
>
> > In a message dated 2/6/2013 12:25:36 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
> > dduvall at 1peter4-10.org writes:
> >
> > Is there a part number for them?
> >
> > Auto Atlanta lists for the "2 pole" boot as R 311 906 102 A. This IS a
> > type 3 part number.
>
> West Coast Metric used to carry these. I may still have some of them.
>
>
> --
> *******************************
> Jim Adney, jadney at vwtype3.org
> Madison, Wisconsin, USA
> *******************************
>
> _______________________________________________
> VWType3.Org mailing list - type3 at vwtype3.org
> http://lists.vwtype3.org/listinfo.cgi/type3-vwtype3.org
> Contact gregm at vwtype3.org if you need help with the list.
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> _______________________________________________
> VWType3.Org mailing list - type3 at vwtype3.org
> http://lists.vwtype3.org/listinfo.cgi/type3-vwtype3.org
> Contact gregm at vwtype3.org if you need help with the list.
>
>
> End of type3-vwtype3.org Digest, Vol 29, Issue 9
> ************************************************
>
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