[T3] Brakes (was Leak under front driver side)

[Bobsnotch at aol.com]

In a message dated 3/18/2013 12:50:22 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
jacob.schroeder at gmail.com writes:
 
I will go ahead and remove these calipers and get them ready to  ship your
way.  We can discuss logistics in a PM once I get them off  the car and can
check the master cylinder as you suggested.  I do not  think that I have a
leak in the long hard line because I have not heard  that sound and any leak
that I have appears to be minor.
 
 
I'd probably pull the master cylinder, and ship it with the calipers to  
Jim. If you use the large USPS box, you could get everything in it, and save a 
 little on shipping. I'd also replace the long line too, mainly because 
they  like to rust out in the pedal area, but also since you'll have the master 
 cylinder out of the car for at least a week. The best way to do that line  
I've found, is in 2 pieces, with a brass connector in the middle.  
Unfortunately, I've forgotten the total length needed, but I believe it's  close to 
80 inches. You'll need bubble flares (metric ends) on the ends  of the 
lines. I got my lines and coupler from NAPA, as their fittings are far  superior 
to those sold at the zone. They cost a little more, but you only have  to do 
it once. : ) Also, by going with a 2 piece line, IF you ever have to  
replace the front section again, it'll be easier to do. This is a trick I  
learned from Russ.
 
One nice thing about having Jim rebuild the calipers and master cylinder,  
along with replacing the long line and the 4 hoses, is that you've got  most 
of the brake system clean and ready for a switch to DoT 5 brake fluid. :  ) 
While you have the hoses off, along with the master cylinder and calipers,  
you can purge the lines with compressed air to remove the old DoT 3 brake  
fluid. Then when you reassemble everything, it's basically ready for new  
fluid. Do the rear wheel cylinders at the same time Jim has the calipers, then 
 you'll be good to go. It might cost a little more to do this ALL at once, 
but  once done, you shouldn't have to go back in there for a very long time, 
making  it cost effective in the long run. If you've looked at the links in 
my Samba  signature, you'll see that I do this kind of rebuild on my own 
cars. And I  take brake work very serious.
 
As for getting stuff from J-Bugs, I'd pass, and let Jim do his thing. I  
only say this, as Jim mentioned, some of the rebuilders out there leave a lot  
to be desired. Add in that most of those parts sit on a shelf somewhere 
until  purchased, and by the time they get used the rubber inside will be shot  
(needing a rebuild again). Or, they send you the wrong parts, and you have 
to  ship them back (on your dime), and this just causes a waste of time and 
money.  Now, Jim and Russ have both told me (in the past) that the quality 
of the  original German parts far exceed those of the reproduced parts being 
sold  today. This makes it better to rebuild the OE parts (you know they 
fit),  versus buying new. Just look thru some of threads on the Samba, and 
you'll see  some of the issues that we as type 3 owners have run into lately 
with new  parts that don't fit, or fail quickly after being installed. :O
 
Please note, I don't get a kick back or a discount from Jim for helping  
push his services. ;-) Like you, I just searched to find someone who does  a 
good job rebuilding the parts I need rebuilt. And doing it in a timely  
manner. : )  

Bob 65  Notch S w/Sunroof and IRS aka Krusty
64 T-34 Ghia aka Wolfie
71  Square-vert under  construction


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