[T3] Rust...

[Bobsnotch at aol.com]

In a message dated 5/11/2013 2:13:46 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
j_jonik at yahoo.com writes:
 
We need some chat about RUST...about maybe how rust in the arms  that hold 
the front axle beams can kill a Squareback.....or about rust that  shows up 
behind the gas tank that might go hidden into the floor to, maybe,  allow 
the car chassis to to start bending.  What is it about driver's  door being a 
bit sticky to open,,,,rust below?....or about trunk hood  springing open 
with new enthusiasm....rust?.....bending of  chassis?

Were it not for rust, a T-III could last  forever.


The biggest key about rust, is that most people don't have the  equipment 
or knowledge to fix it correctly. I've replaced a  rusty frame head before, 
but you have to have the body off the chassis,  so you can make sure 
everything is still square. Not everyone has the  time or space to do this. It's a 
big job, and best done IF doing a  restoration.
 
As for the rust behind and below the fuel tank, removing the tank,  and 
applying paint here will go a long way to keeping it from happening. It  starts 
there, because the paint is thin, and the fresh air box drains run  right 
into it. This water has to go somewhere.
 
The area directly behind the front tires, and in front of the rear  tires 
are also big common places for rust.  A lot of it happens in front,  because 
there's a body lip that covers the edge of the pan. It gets packed  with 
dirt and mud spray from the tires, and is allowed to sit and get wet. It  
really starts to rust from the backside, and by the time you see it, the  damage 
is done.  The rear area is similar, but there's also hidden traps  there 
that allow dirt and water to sit.
 
As for door hinges rusting up, well that's partly why VW added a  plastic 
cap to the top for oil to penetrate into the hinge, to lube it. It's  one of 
those things that's supposed to happen at every oil change, but people  
forget about them, until they get stiff and hard to open/close.
 
Another spot is windshield seal leaks, that cause water to enter  the car 
at the paint drain hole, or an antenna grommet that's missing,  allowing 
water to enter. Both of these spots will go straight down toward the  heater 
outlet. This causes the forward part of the heater channel to rust out.  Since 
we're talking heater channels, the outer skin rusts out, due to water  
entering from the drains on top, and thru the trim clip holes, and stone chips  
from the tires. Once rust takes a foothold here, it starts working inward  
toward the heater channel tube. Then it's rusted out, and working on the inner 
 layer of body metal.
 
Needless to say, living in the "salt belt" has given me a greater  insight 
into rust. Probably more than I really wanted. :O
 
As for living forever, they were designed to be replaced every 3 to  5 
years. That's so you would buy a new car, and keep the used car market  alive. 
No manufacturer ever designed their car to last 40+ years. They  wouldn't 
make any money IF they did. There also wouldn't be the innovation  that we've 
seen in the last 20 or 30 years in regards to rust prevention,  electronics, 
fuel mileage, safety, and reliability. Just something to think  about.


Bob 65  Notch S w/Sunroof and IRS aka Krusty
64 T-34 Ghia aka Wolfie
71  Square-vert under  construction


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