[T3] Engine "missing"

[Jim Adney]

On 18 Sep 2013 at 20:16, Gary Forsmo wrote:

> 1) Check the dwell, to see if the rubbing block on the points has
> worn.
> 
> Jim ... And how do I know "worn" from just normal wear from running.  I'm
> sure you would have checked this when you did my engine tune-up.

If the block wears, the dwell increases. If your dwell gets too 
large, the points won't always open. If the points don't open you get 
no spark and you have a "miss."

> 2) Check each SP connector for ~1000 Ohms. The resistors eventually
> go open and leave a gap, which the spark will sometimes jump,
> sometimes not.
> 
> ~ 1000 ohms ... Spark Plug Connector from dizzy to the right-angle
> connector at spark plug end?
> 
> 3) Check the rotor for ~5000 Ohms. They go open on rare occasions,
> same as the SP connectors.
> 
> Remove the dizzy cap?  Pull of the dizzy rotor off of the shaft? Check for
> ~5000 from the center to the end, which points to the 4 SP connectors.

Not necessary to pull the rotor off. Just measure the resistance 
between the center contact and the end contact. The resistance to the 
shaft should be infinite. (If it's not, the engine won't run at all.)

> 4) Lie down on the ground behind your car and reach under the fan
> housing with a stick or toothpick. Find the drain hole that's next to
> the crack between the fan housing halves. Clear it out. Water can
> collect there when it rains and then get blown onto the SPs when you
> start the engine. This will give rough running until the engine gets
> warm enough to dry everything off.
> 
> When the '69 is up on the rack for wheel alignment, I'll check for blockage
> of the drain hole, as you described.

-- 
*******************************
Jim Adney, jadney at vwtype3.org
Madison, Wisconsin, USA
*******************************