[T3] Thats It

[Chris Sheridan]

I suspect, and again, I haven't seen it, but I suspect that either Lloyd
didn't set up the valve train geometry right or didn't break in the cam
with the proper method or proper oil.


If the motor ran fine after the initial rebuild the valve train geometry is
fine. If the motor received regular valve adjustments
there is no reason for it to fail. If however the valves were never
adjusted regularly they it's quite common for the #1 and #3 exhaust valves
to run too hot, begin to corrode out in the combustion chamber, become
unable to properly seat. Alternatively the head itself may have begun to
fail where the valve guides begin to let go and push the valve open to
burn, or perhaps the heat or poor rebuilding could have caused the valve
seats to collapse - any number of head related failures can occur, whether
you regularly set the valves or not. However if you don't set the valves,
you will surely burn your #1 and #3 exhaust valves and they may at some
point get sucked into the motor, break off through the piston etc.

All of the above describes the valve train geometry going wrong - and the
many ways it can happen. If you decide to put pushrods into the motor that
are a different length, that is changing the equation as well. Doing
something like that can and will affect the wear on the cam lobes.


So regardless of what Lloyd Did or Didn't do, you have a mystery motor on
your hands. A $20 dollar compression tester and an hour of your time will
answer the most important question, do I need to pull the motor and break
off the old heads? a healthy engine will read over 100 pounds and even; say
- 120 130 120 125

Your engine will likely read 120 75 115 0 or something like that


I need an idea of how much all these various things will cost:
   1. Dropping engine and replacing with new engine
   2. Dropping engine and splitting case, replacing camshaft, lifters etc.
And don't forget, The Baroness is an automatic.  Seems to make everything
harder. Not so sure about putting back the FI.  I had a LOT of trouble with
it.
 The carbs have been pretty trouble free.


1. This will cost about $1300 for the new longblock and about $600 labor if
you can find someone who will do it.
2. This will cost exponentially more than 1.

Automatic just means you need to have them put a driveplate on the
longblock you order here:
http://www.avpworldwide.com/engines.htm
Also make sure you have them orient the distributor dog gear probably for a
type 3.
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