[T3] that's it

[Keith Park]

I agree with Jim, but before you put stock pushrods in it make SURE you have
stock valve springs and not heavy duty ones, you don't need the stiff
springs but if you have them that's when you need the steel PR's

Ive said this before but YOU CAN SEE the cam lobes, all 4 of them and the
lifter interface if you take the strainer out of the bottom of the engine,
Ive checked mine out and got a clear look at them and I have the Sumps on
there to complicate matters.  If your not sure take a picture, a REAL
picture, hi-res, not a cell phone shot and post it on the Samba... I know
they limit res to like 700K or so but I think the experts will still be able

To come to a conclusion from that.

Keith


Top Notch Restorations
topnotch at nycap.rr.com 
http://www.a383ina68.addr.com/radiorest/main.htm
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-----Original Message-----
From: type3-vwtype3.org [mailto:type3-vwtype3.org-bounces at lists.vwtype3.org]
On Behalf Of Jim Adney
Sent: Thursday, August 21, 2014 12:19 AM
To: type3 at vwtype3.org
Subject: Re: [T3] that's it

On 20 Aug 2014 at 18:18, Fiesta Cranberry wrote:

> So regardless of what Lloyd Did or Didn't do, you have a mystery motor on
> your hands. A $20 dollar compression tester and an hour of your time will
> answer the most important question, do I need to pull the motor and break
> off the old heads? a healthy engine will read over 100 pounds and even;
say
> - 120 130 120 125
> 
> OK, so *IF *I can get it started and do this test, and the test reads bad,
> does that mean I only have to buy new heads and not the whole longblock?
>  And what if the test reads normal?

I think it's unfair to give you any hope that the problem might be at 
the head end of the engine. The only place that could lead to what 
you've explained to us is at the cam/lifer interface. I'm afraid 
there's no easy solution to this.

I suspect that you will need to replace the cam and lifters, and I 
strongly advise you to ditch the steel pushrods and go back to stock. 
Sure, the steel pushrods are stronger and CAN be used successfully, 
but they require different settings, so you MUST understand all the 
ramifications. For someone who just wants stock reliability and stock 
performance, stock parts are always the way to go.

Higher performance requires much greater understanding, as well as a 
choice of parts that are compatable with each other as well as with 
the driving that will be done. You can't just pick random parts from 
the Hi-Per parts bin, throw them in, and assume everything will be 
better.

-- 
*******************************
Jim Adney, jadney at vwtype3.org
Madison, Wisconsin, USA
*******************************

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