[T3] Clutch question

[Dave Hall]

Nice to hear of the good work being done for Sarah, Jim.

My previous '71 was overthrowing when the clutch was pressed, and wearing
rivets.  I fitted a new clutch kit and all seemed OK.

The diaphragm clutches can get heavy (through work-hardening, I heard) - I
had that happen on a Polo, and a new diaphragm assembly cured that.

Lack of lubrication on the sleeve the release bearing runs on can also give
stiffness in operation.

Dave
UK VW Type 3&4 Club
===================

-----Original Message-----
From: type3-vwtype3.org [mailto:type3-vwtype3.org-bounces at lists.vwtype3.org]
On Behalf Of Jim Adney
Sent: 27 August 2014 03:45
To: type3 at vwtype3.org
Subject: [T3] Clutch question

Sarah is here! Yes, Sarah from Brooklyn, NY, who we met at the Invasion,
made it all the way to Wisconsin with Marigold, her '71 square. We had a
number of things to try to sort out and one of them was the clutch.

We think most of the other things are sorted out, but there's a mystery in
the clutch. When we got the engine out, the pressure plate was a German F&S
3-arm diaphram spring pressure plate and the driven disk was a Brazilian F&S
spring center disk. Both appear to be correct for her '71. (No center ring
on the pressure plate.)

Keith thought this might be a Kennedy plate, because the pedal pressure
seemed heavy, but once we got to it, it all appears to be stock. We're
looking for something obviously wrong, but the only thing that's wrong is
something really strange:  

The disk appears to have plenty of life left in it. PP surface and flywheel
surface look fine.

The spring center disk has 3 rivets that hold the 3 center plates (that
contain the 6 springs) together. The heads of those 3 rivets have been
partly worn away because they have been touching the inner edge of the
diaphram spring in this PP. Clearly these 2 parts were never designed to
play well together, even though they are both F&S.

I have a perfectly good F&S diaphram style (non-3-arm) PP that has plenty of
clearance over those rivets, and I'll be happy to install it in her car, but
this doesn't seem like it would have anything to do with the heavy pedal
pressure.  

So here's my question: Has anyone seen this before? Does anyone think this
should cause heavy pedal pressure? If so, why?

While we're at this point, I think we should also pull the flywheel and
check the main seal and the gland nut pilot bearing.

So far we've replaced the missing thermostat, and the pushrod tube next to
it, that the previous mechanic had dented when he removed the old
thermostat. That pushrod had rubbed a hole in the pushrod tube. 
That explains a lot of Marigold's oil loss. The rest of the thermostat
linkage was there, but it had a wrong spring installed. At least that spring
kept the flaps OPEN!

New pushrod tube, thermostat, linkage, and spring are all installed and
adjusted now.

We also found that the outboard spring anchors for the mech adv in the
distributor had been bent over by the installation of a condensor mounting
screw that was too long. I think that made the advance start at a much lower
rpm, so that the timing was dependent on what rpm you timed it at. So
Marigold gets a "new" distributor. That should make the timing much more
stable.

Comments on the clutch, PLEASE?

--
*******************************
Jim Adney, jadney at vwtype3.org
Madison, Wisconsin, USA
*******************************

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