[T3] type3-vwtype3.org Digest, Vol 44, Issue 27

Fiesta Cranberry fiestacranberry at gmail.com
Wed May 21 21:10:12 PDT 2014 

I don't know :(   I suspect you are right about the lifters and/or
camshaft.  If the car does that same thing again after changing out the
pushrods, we will take out the engine.

BTW, Lloyd uses oil with "Z7" in it---he's got some stockpiled.  We've been
fanatical about doing oil changes.

Lori


On Wed, May 21, 2014 at 1:58 PM, <
type3-vwtype3.org-request at lists.vwtype3.org> wrote:

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> Today's Topics:
>
>    1. Re: type3-vwtype3.org Digest, Vol 44, Issue 25 (Jim Adney)
>    2. Re: valve woes (Fiesta Cranberry)
>    3. Re: valve woes (Daniel K. Du Vall)
>    4. Re: valve woes (Daniel K. Du Vall)
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Wed, 21 May 2014 08:20:53 -0500
> From: "Jim Adney" <jadney at vwtype3.org>
> To: type3 at vwtype3.org
> Subject: Re: [T3] type3-vwtype3.org Digest, Vol 44, Issue 25
> Message-ID: <537CA835.10274.4BE467 at jadney.vwtype3.org>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
>
> On 21 May 2014 at 2:15, Fiesta Cranberry wrote:
>
> > We used Febi lifters, German made. Lloyd said he can see them thru the
> sump
> > hole, and they are OK.  We used as many German made parts as we could.
>
> The lifters that failed on me were also German. They came wrapped in
> brown corrugated cardboard with a stamped notation "Made in W.
> Germany." They are known substandard parts. I do not recall seeing
> any brand markings on the package. I don't have much Febi experience,
> but what I have was poor. According to Berg, many years ago (so this
> could be different today) the only sources for good lifters are OEM
> VW (which could be Brazilian or Mexican) or the Brazilian ones
> marketed by T?? (sorry, can't remember the 3-letter brand this
> morning.) The T?? lifters are 3-piece parts that look the same on the
> outside but have a separate insert inside with a snap ring to hold it
> in place. They work the same, but are not recommended for hi-rev
> applications because sometimes the little snap rings work their way
> out and can actually weave their way thru the oil strainer and get
> caught up in the oil pump gears.
>
> Someone help me with the T?? brand. I'm just drawing a blank on this
> 30 year old memory this morning. All I can think of is TDC....
>
> I suspect that the wear you've had here is too little to notice by
> looking thru the sump hole.
>
> For the record, I've always just reused my broken in OE camshafts.
> They may be worn a bit, but they have already been broken in and
> don't fail like this. I generally replace the lifters with new ones
> that I buy from Gene Berg.
>
> It's certainly possible that the problem is with the camshaft, but
> the distinction is moot since you have to crack the case to get to
> either of them. The problem is likely due to improper mating at the
> interface between the camshaft and lifter, and could be caused or
> made worse by the lack of ZDDP in the oil.
>
> ZDDP is an oil additive that is important for engines that have cams
> using flat lifters like ours, but ZDDP has been phased out of modern
> oils since it poisons catalytic converters. You can buy additives, or
> I buy Diesel (C-rated) oil that is also marked with an earlier S
> rating.
>
> This lubrication is most important during the break-in of the cam and
> lifter, as this is when the 2 surfaces are either going to work
> harden and survive, or start to wear down. It's probably very
> important with a refurbished cam.
>
> I'm afraid longer pushrods won't solve anything in your case; they
> only clear up the symptom. Longer or shorter pushrods are used to get
> the valve train back to the correct geometry when the heads have been
> moved in or out due to flycutting the combustion chamber or changing
> the crank to a longer stroke.
>
> --
> *******************************
> Jim Adney, jadney at vwtype3.org
> Madison, Wisconsin, USA
> *******************************
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Wed, 21 May 2014 12:45:37 -0700
> From: Fiesta Cranberry <fiestacranberry at gmail.com>
> To: type3-vwtype3.org at lists.vwtype3.org
> Subject: Re: [T3] valve woes
> Message-ID:
>         <CAD=
> 5u+L381UF5uVgkx7R-5HkUvRCMLnUUEzPNF6VqRnuEkN7oQ at mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> ?Very roughly (by eye), I would say the new pushrod is about 1/3 to 1/4
> > inch longer.
> >
>
> ?Lori?
>
> > ?
> >
> >
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>
> Message: 3
> Date: Wed, 21 May 2014 20:35:07 +0000
> From: "Daniel K. Du Vall" <dduvall at 1peter4-10.org>
> To: "type3 at vwtype3.org" <type3 at vwtype3.org>,
>         "type3-vwtype3.org at lists.vwtype3.org"
>         <type3-vwtype3.org at lists.vwtype3.org>
> Subject: Re: [T3] valve woes
> Message-ID:
>         <
> 370d5ba9a5794bdbbe5c431ab6bb4efc at BY2PR05MB109.namprd05.prod.outlook.com>
>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> Well that probably rules out my thoughts. I was thinking possibly the head
> bolts pulling out if there had not been case savers put in during the
> rebuild.  But that much sure seems like cam and lifter failure or the
> pushrod ends not being seated in the tubes properly.  That?s a lot of
> change though.  I assume that the valve adjusters were not coming loose?
>
> Daniel Du Vall
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: type3-vwtype3.org [mailto:
> type3-vwtype3.org-bounces at lists.vwtype3.org] On Behalf Of Fiesta Cranberry
> Sent: Wednesday, May 21, 2014 2:46 PM
> To: type3-vwtype3.org at lists.vwtype3.org
> Subject: Re: [T3] valve woes
>
> ?Very roughly (by eye), I would say the new pushrod is about 1/3 to 1/4
> > inch longer.
> >
>
> ?Lori?
>
> > ?
> >
> >
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> http://lists.vwtype3.org/listinfo.cgi/type3-vwtype3.org
> Contact gregm at vwtype3.org if you need help with the list.
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 4
> Date: Wed, 21 May 2014 20:35:07 +0000
> From: "Daniel K. Du Vall" <dduvall at 1peter4-10.org>
> To: "type3 at vwtype3.org" <type3 at vwtype3.org>,
>         "type3-vwtype3.org at lists.vwtype3.org"
>         <type3-vwtype3.org at lists.vwtype3.org>
> Subject: Re: [T3] valve woes
> Message-ID:
>         <
> 370d5ba9a5794bdbbe5c431ab6bb4efc at BY2PR05MB109.namprd05.prod.outlook.com>
>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> Well that probably rules out my thoughts. I was thinking possibly the head
> bolts pulling out if there had not been case savers put in during the
> rebuild.  But that much sure seems like cam and lifter failure or the
> pushrod ends not being seated in the tubes properly.  That?s a lot of
> change though.  I assume that the valve adjusters were not coming loose?
>
> Daniel Du Vall
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: type3-vwtype3.org [mailto:
> type3-vwtype3.org-bounces at lists.vwtype3.org] On Behalf Of Fiesta Cranberry
> Sent: Wednesday, May 21, 2014 2:46 PM
> To: type3-vwtype3.org at lists.vwtype3.org
> Subject: Re: [T3] valve woes
>
> ?Very roughly (by eye), I would say the new pushrod is about 1/3 to 1/4
> > inch longer.
> >
>
> ?Lori?
>
> > ?
> >
> >
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> End of type3-vwtype3.org Digest, Vol 44, Issue 27
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>



-- 
"I wrestled with reality for 36 years, and I'm happy to say I've finally
won out over it."
                                                  ---Elwood P. Dowd
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