[T3] Air Presser Sensor ( tow my T3)

Tim Keohane rheorojo at frontier.com
Sat Nov 8 09:21:55 PST 2014


I have 2 sensors, both identical, one holds vacuum at 15" hg for 5 minutes ( in the car ) the other will develop 15" hg but bleeds if off in about 15 seconds. It was in the car. It is the one that was accessed to get to the small adjusting screw. Nate at Provolks thought it may be the seal between the 2 halves, and then would be a simple fix. I have not opened it up just have it in a box. I can send it off to you and when I find a good replacement for the one in the car I can let it go as well.

Just a note: I see you referenced a "107" number and mine are "007". Possibly a typo ?

This car has been in the family since mile 1, but has visited "shade tree mechanics" to the pros, so I'm guessing its original except for the injectors. I've looked for an identifying tag or number on the CPU but haven't seen anything definite. The air intake distributor is original, the sensors probably not, and the EGR system disappeared looooong ago. Just blocked off now.
On Nov 7, 2014, at 12:44 PM, Jim Adney wrote:

> On 7 Nov 2014 at 10:13, Tim Keohane wrote:
> 
>> I finally got the presser sensor out and rechecked the numbers. I got
>> the ending letters mixed up. The VW # is 311 906 051C, and the bosch #
>> is 0280100007. I am now searching for the correct sensor. Jim you
>> mentioned there were 2 that ended in "E" and that the Bosch # would
>> identify the correct part for my 73 FI automatic. Can you tell me that
>> #. 
> 
> The correct pressure sensor for a '73 (assuming you still have the 
> original '73 FI system) is 0 280 100 116. That's the late "E" 
> version. The early "E" version that was used in '72 ends in 106. Both 
> have the black cap over the end. I believe the 116 superceeds the 
> 106. I'll check, but I don't think I have a spare 116. If the black 
> cap has been removed and the adjustment tampered with, I can 
> recalibrate it.
> 
> BTW, the 107 that you have has value if it still holds vacuum. That's 
> the version that has the diaphram that eventually cracks, so good 
> ones are always in demand. If yours is cracked, I'll pay shipping for 
> it, because I'm trying to work out a way to make replacement 
> diaphrams, so I'm interested in building up a stock of dead ones.
> 
>> Also is it possible to compile a correct one from two by combining the
>> halves of two different ones, so long as they are both "good" halves.
>> Or can I ship one to you and have it adjusted to be correct for my
>> vehicle.
> 
> Sorry, no on both counts.
> 
> -- 
> *******************************
> Jim Adney, jadney at vwtype3.org
> Madison, Wisconsin, USA
> *******************************
> 
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