[T3] Continued Tail Pipe and Starter topics...

[Dave Hall]

... And make sure the braid connecting the gearbox to the frame is good.

Dave. 

-----Original Message-----
From: type3-vwtype3.org [mailto:type3-vwtype3.org-bounces at lists.vwtype3.org]
On Behalf Of Dave Hall
Sent: 24 October 2014 03:37
To: type3 at vwtype3.org
Subject: Re: [T3] Continued Tail Pipe and Starter topics...

Try another battery!  That rattling noise is typical of a battery not able
to supply enough power once the motor tries to draw full power, and the dim
lights just confirm it.  It's either the battery or one of the main
connecting braided wires or the heavy battery to starter wire that's bad.
You've not used a replacement aluminium battery connector, have you, or
smothered a contact with copper grease?  

Put the headlights on and check what the battery voltage reading is, then
connect the meter across the various joints, looking for readings.  When it
gives a reading more than a fraction of a volt, you've probably found the
joint that's bad, if that's the problem.
(I guess the battery volts will be nearer 10V that 12V, showing the battery
is bad, but it may be the wiring).


Dave
UK VW Type 3&4 Club
===================


-----Original Message-----
From: type3-vwtype3.org [mailto:type3-vwtype3.org-bounces at lists.vwtype3.org]
On Behalf Of J. Jonik
Sent: 24 October 2014 00:29
To: Type 3
Subject: [T3] Continued Tail Pipe and Starter topics...

Continued from "tail pipe" and "starter" topics.....again, Std FI 73 engine.

"New" ok-tested starter in...even thought it's one from a 71 automatic. Word
is that that's ok, and there will be more torque.       But car still won't
start or even try.   Oil and Gen lights dim, usual fuel noises normal.
(Turning engine at fan pulley...turns normally... No binding.)

Another thing un-noticed before:   Key on, tried the lights. They all work
but are Very Dim...and the oil-gen lights on dash dim with lights on too.
That must mean something.  What failed component(s) would do that?

Also, before car died, there was static on the radio.  Coincidence...or a
clue to something?

And, doing the screwdriver tests at solenoid...crossing the two big
connections got only one tiny effort to turn....but then nothing. Crossing
hot connection to Ign. Switch connection got nothing.  Switch wire is on the
tab that cannot be bent outwards....as the "idiot" VW book shows. Is that
correct?   The other tab, for "fuel injection", never had a wire attached. 
No code numbers or letters near the two push-on connector tabs.

Earlier I tested ignition switch wire with test light.   Without help, I
used a mirror to see the test light under the car while I turned the key.
Light was Nice and Bright...though I didn't measure voltage.  The book says
voltage there should be over 7 v..some say 12 v is best.   I'll try to
measure tomorrow.
Hmmm ------> Can a battery be bad even if all six cells measure to the top
of "Good" range?
And...before all this, last week, while trying to get horn working, while
replacing blown horn (etc) fuse, the fuse slipped and did sparks with the
fuse next door...for "buzzer alarm".  Would that have shorted or burnt
something out?
   Did I mess up the whole fuse box?  (Horn still doesn't work.)

And--- I have some solenoids from past standard shift starters.  The
starters are apart (forget why), but I didn't disassemble the solenoids.
Should I just put one of them onto the starter I just pulled out?  (That
"machine gun" noise at test of hot connection to Ign wire proved the
solenoid was bad, right?...even though the starter spun nicely when crossing
the big terminals.) A job for Sherlock Holmes Auto Repair?
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