[T3] type3-vwtype3.org Digest, Vol 56, Issue 1
Fiesta Cranberry
fiestacranberry at gmail.com
Fri May 1 15:37:47 PDT 2015
I took it for a drive today, and I also notice that the brakes are
definitely "dragging" in a rhythmic manor---I can really feel it when
coasting. Sort of a drag...drag...drag...drag feeling that is in synch
with the brake pedal pushing against my foot, and the soft scree noise from
the rear. Definitely the brake is rubbing and dragging on the car. I
couldn't push it out of the garage by hand---had to start it aand back
out. I'm wondering if they damaged a rotor?
Lori & The B., 1971 SB AT
On Fri, May 1, 2015 at 1:42 PM, <type3-vwtype3.org-request at lists.vwtype3.org
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> Today's Topics:
>
> 1. Re: Flexible steering coupler (Dave Hall)
> 2. Re: Flexible steering coupler (Keith Park)
> 3. brakes (Fiesta Cranberry)
> 4. Re: 1973 Fasty Back on the Road! (Phil Hof)
> 5. Re: brakes (Dave Hall)
> 6. Re: brakes (Jim Adney)
> 7. Re: type3-vwtype3.org Digest, Vol 55, Issue 14 (Doug Brashear)
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Fri, 1 May 2015 01:11:08 +0100
> From: "Dave Hall" <dave at hallvw.clara.co.uk>
> To: <type3 at vwtype3.org>
> Subject: Re: [T3] Flexible steering coupler
> Message-ID: <1720FA635F2048AE877129275B4B3B0E at DavidPC>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
> Thanks Bob - the body may have become feeble but the head is still OK then!
> It seemed that was probably a better way to go - might even do best with
> the
> spare wheel well out and stand in the hole with the car on the ground -
> easy
> enough to still turn the steering on gravel to get the required bolt at the
> top. Old cotter pins are hard to remove - I've had to do that on track-rod
> (tie-rod) ends. Maybe now stainless are common it would be better, but the
> mild steel ones always rusted in. I can't imagine how hard it was to drill
> through in that position
>
> Thanks for the warning on the coupler. I've two genuine NOS VW ones in my
> parts, not poor quality repros, and they are the rubber impregnated fabric
> with spacers. Some I've seen have something like rivets, and definitely
> are
> very inferior. I remember the one I changed decades ago was badly cracked,
> but the fabric was still holding things together.
>
> I guess the column housing may need disturbing to get a bit of clearance to
> remove the old and fit the new - we'll see.
>
> Dave
> UK VW Type 3&4 Club
> ===================
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: type3-vwtype3.org [mailto:
> type3-vwtype3.org-bounces at lists.vwtype3.org]
> On Behalf Of Bobsnotch at aol.com
> Sent: 30 April 2015 18:04
> To: type3 at vwtype3.org
> Subject: Re: [T3] Flexible steering coupler
>
> In a message dated 4/30/15 11:23:47 AM Central Daylight Time,
> dave at hallvw.clara.co.uk writes:
>
> > Any tips on this job?
> >
> > BTW, the nuts and bolts are actually M8 but with 14mm heads and nyloc
> nuts,
> > and have Beetle part numbers. You learn something new every day.
>
> Dave, the best advice for replacing the coupler rubber, is to do it with
> the
> tank out. Yes, the back might complain, but you can get a better purchase
> on
> the nuts and bolts. Yes, what you've found is something I've run across
> myself. In fact on the early cars (thru 64) VW actually used castle nuts
> and
> cotter pins on those bolts. :O Same 14mm size though. Thought the small
> cotter pins were really out of place, but then that's 1 area you don't want
> anything coming loose. ;-) Also, make sure the coupler you get has the
> cloth
> inside it, as quite a few of these are now being made without it. And when
> they start to crack, they fail completely, leaving you with very little
> steering. Just a heads up, and I hope this helps.
> Bob</HTML>
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> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Thu, 30 Apr 2015 20:22:47 -0400
> From: "Keith Park" <topnotch at nycap.rr.com>
> To: <type3 at vwtype3.org>
> Subject: Re: [T3] Flexible steering coupler
> Message-ID: <D6.B1.15482.C47C2455 at cdptpa-oedge02>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
> Yes, one of the ONLY 14mm on the T3 on the steering coupler!
> pull the tank, MUCH easier, and make sure the new one your using has the
> thread reinforcment in it, and not one that just has rubber as they tend to
> crack quickly and break completely. Id personally prefer a slightly
> cracked
> original with the tread in it than a new straight rubber one.
>
> Keiht
>
>
> Topnotch Restorations
> topnotch at nycap.rr.com
> http://www.a383ina68.addr.com/radiorest/main.htm
> 71 Squareback "Hothe"
> 65 Squareback "Eggcrate"
> 65 Notchback "El Baja Rojo"
> 93 RX7 "Redstur"
> 87 Golf "Winterat"
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: type3-vwtype3.org [mailto:
> type3-vwtype3.org-bounces at lists.vwtype3.org]
> On Behalf Of Dave Hall
> Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2015 12:15 PM
> To: type3 at vwtype3.org
> Subject: [T3] Flexible steering coupler
>
> I doubt I've changed one of the rubber steering couplers in years, but the
> tester last year said it was slightly cracked, so I thought I'd better see
> to it before offering it up for this year's test. I had been putting it
> off, as I want to replace the rusting and much-patched wing (fender) that
> side and it seemed a good chance to work on both.
>
> It took a while to lift the front, support it, take off the wheel, and even
> longer to puzzle out the best way to undo the 4 bolts. They didn't seem to
> be 13mm or 15mm heads, hmm, maybe 14mm then - not very common on a Type 3,
> though the '59 Beetle had them everywhere. Access wasn't good either -
> the
> beam gets in the way, so does the steering column collapsible web. I
> didn't
> seem to have an extension that suited the job. Then there was the age
> factor - awkward angle to work at, not enough strength at arms length, a
> bit
> of a creaky shoulder etc. - just a few of the penalties of the passing
> years!
>
> What should have taken an hour left me so frustrated after a couple of
> hours, that I just nipped up the wheel bearing that the inspector had
> reported as having slight play and put things back. I'll probably remove
> the tank when I do the wing, along with some preventive maintenance - it's
> not very hard on a carbed car, and I suspect the little seal on the tank
> inlet pipe isn't sealing as well as it should. I assume working down from
> above will be easier - as long as the back doesn't complain instead! I
> think the horn wire link is high resistance, so I can renew or clean that
> as
> another benefit of the job.
>
> Any tips on this job?
>
> BTW, the nuts and bolts are actually M8 but with 14mm heads and nyloc nuts,
> and have Beetle part numbers. You learn something new every day.
>
> Dave.
> UK VW Type 3&4 Club
> ===================
>
>
>
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>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 3
> Date: Thu, 30 Apr 2015 20:01:48 -0700
> From: Fiesta Cranberry <fiestacranberry at gmail.com>
> To: VW list <type3-vwtype3.org at lists.vwtype3.org>
> Subject: [T3] brakes
> Message-ID:
> <CAD=
> 5u+JCdygdkXtJPBrxnO+N4__mW8+5x0-uXzFUJDE657UHgQ at mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> hi guys,
> I finally had the master cylinder replaced in The Baroness---it had
> completely given out on me.
>
> The brakes work now, but I'm noticing 2 things. First is a weird kind of
> "chatter" when I put my foot lightly on the brake pedal. It's like the
> pedal is fighting me, in a rapid, da da da da da da da kind of push up
> against my foot.
>
> The second is a soft scree scree scree coming from (I think) the passenger
> side back wheel. I notice it when I'm coasting. The brakes also seem to
> grab very quickly and hard.
>
> Is this normal? I've never noticed this before. I'm using a new guy, so I
> wanted to check in with you before I take it back.
>
> Lori and The Baroness, 71 SB AT
>
> --
> "I wrestled with reality for 36 years, and I'm happy to say I've finally
> won out over it."
> ---Elwood P. Dowd
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> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 4
> Date: Thu, 30 Apr 2015 22:15:03 -0700
> From: Phil Hof <phil.hof at ostronic.org>
> To: type3-vwtype3.org at lists.vwtype3.org
> Subject: Re: [T3] 1973 Fasty Back on the Road!
> Message-ID: <B057F747-FF7B-4FF8-AA06-E2E112C2464B at ostronic.org>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=windows-1252
>
>
> Congrats on getting her back on the road and looking so sharp!
>
> Interesting that you have pop outs on a ?71 with the flow-through
> ventilation slots in the C-pillars. I had that mod done on mine while it
> was apart and without a headliner, and it is non-trivial to get it done
> right. Do you know how it was done on yours? Now that ISP West is
> reproducing quality pop out seals, they may become more desirable than ever
> before.
> -Phil
>
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 5
> Date: Fri, 1 May 2015 12:29:40 +0100
> From: "Dave Hall" <dave at hallvw.clara.co.uk>
> To: <type3 at vwtype3.org>
> Subject: Re: [T3] brakes
> Message-ID: <C2F2EA2EC93947858B8883FA125F8846 at DavidPC>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
> Hi Lori,
> Sounds like the friction surfaces are grabbing and releasing. If the
> master
> cylinder hasn't been working properly for a while, there may be a bit of
> surface rust. Are the discs shiny, or a bit rusty? That's more common in
> damp places than California, though. The rear drums can suffer the same.
> Sometimes chamfering the leading ends of the shoes helps. Were the pads or
> shoes renewed, or just the M/C? If so, they may take a little while to
> bed-in.
>
> Dave
> UK VW Type 3&4 Club
> ===================
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: type3-vwtype3.org [mailto:
> type3-vwtype3.org-bounces at lists.vwtype3.org]
> On Behalf Of Fiesta Cranberry
> Sent: 01 May 2015 04:02
> To: VW list
> Subject: [T3] brakes
>
> hi guys,
> I finally had the master cylinder replaced in The Baroness---it had
> completely given out on me.
>
> The brakes work now, but I'm noticing 2 things. First is a weird kind of
> "chatter" when I put my foot lightly on the brake pedal. It's like the
> pedal is fighting me, in a rapid, da da da da da da da kind of push up
> against my foot.
>
> The second is a soft scree scree scree coming from (I think) the passenger
> side back wheel. I notice it when I'm coasting. The brakes also seem to
> grab very quickly and hard.
>
> Is this normal? I've never noticed this before. I'm using a new guy, so I
> wanted to check in with you before I take it back.
>
> Lori and The Baroness, 71 SB AT
>
> --
> "I wrestled with reality for 36 years, and I'm happy to say I've finally
> won
> out over it."
> ---Elwood P. Dowd
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> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 6
> Date: Fri, 01 May 2015 07:26:09 -0500
> From: "Jim Adney" <jadney at vwtype3.org>
> To: type3 at vwtype3.org
> Subject: Re: [T3] brakes
> Message-ID: <554370E1.13937.1FD971 at jadney.vwtype3.org>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII
>
> On 30 Apr 2015 at 20:01, Fiesta Cranberry wrote:
>
> > The brakes work now, but I'm noticing 2 things. First is a weird kind of
> > "chatter" when I put my foot lightly on the brake pedal. It's like the
> > pedal is fighting me, in a rapid, da da da da da da da kind of push up
> > against my foot.
>
> Not sure what this is, but I've experienced something similar with
> certain brake fluids that seem to lack lubricity, so that the seals
> in the MC seem to be sticking in the MC bore as they go down. I get a
> sort of stick-slip effect: stick-stick-stick...stick. Sort of a long
> scriiiiiiiich as I push the pedal down. It's as if things were
> "squeaky clean" inside the MC.
>
> The end result of this was that the MC seals wore out quickly (a
> couple of years) from the friction. The brake fluid that did this to
> me was Castrol LMA, which is normally considered a good product, but
> this problem went away when I switched to DOT-5 silicone brake fluid,
> which has excellent rubber to metal lubricity. The Castrol is a DOT-4
> fluid. A run of the mill DOT-3 fluid would probably also work better.
>
> > The second is a soft scree scree scree coming from (I think) the
> passenger
> > side back wheel. I notice it when I'm coasting. The brakes also seem to
> > grab very quickly and hard.
>
> It could be nothing, just some rust sticking up and touching the
> rotating drum, or it could be a sign that the brakes on one wheel are
> adjusted a tad too tight. There are also some small parts which hold
> the rear brake shoes in place against the brake backing plate.
> Sometimes when these get old, they come apart and fall to the bottom
> of the drum, where they slide and make noise. Those parts could
> probably just be left out, or they could be replaced if you can find
> Type 3 replacements. There's a spring, a pin, and a washer: two of
> each on each wheel. I think only the pin is Type 3 specific.
>
> --
> *******************************
> Jim Adney, jadney at vwtype3.org
> Madison, Wisconsin, USA
> *******************************
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 7
> Date: Fri, 1 May 2015 13:45:05 +0000 (UTC)
> From: Doug Brashear <dougbrashear at yahoo.com>
> To: "type3-vwtype3.org at lists.vwtype3.org"
> <type3-vwtype3.org at lists.vwtype3.org>
> Subject: Re: [T3] type3-vwtype3.org Digest, Vol 55, Issue 14
> Message-ID:
> <1390877842.281794.1430487905876.JavaMail.yahoo at mail.yahoo.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> J L said:
> > Very NICE Doug! Good to see another VA T3 on the road!
> > Since she's on the road Doug, are you going to make it to BUGOUT in
> > Petersburg VA this May? It's the 24th, Sunday. There's usually 2 BUGOUTS
> a
> > yr, but this year there's only one. I think the BU may return to it's
> home
> > next yr which is in Manassas VA.
> > I'll be there. It's be nice to see that slick green fasty at this yrs BU.
>
> Hey!
> Yes, I'm definitely going to be there but may be driving the bus instead.
> My youngest daughter is coming with me and depending on how the day goes we
> may camp overnight instead of heading back to NoVA same-day. If we do
> planning on doing it same-day, though, and I feel confident enough in the
> Fastback by then I'll try to bring it. 10 years of not being driven is a
> lot of confidence in its abilities that I have to restore, even despite all
> the work I've done. In particular I'm still fiddling with the brakes. After
> adjusting them they almost seem to have too much pedal. The brakes don't
> seem to drag, and definitely don't lock up, but the pedal action is a
> little different than what I remembered having. The whole brake system has
> been refreshed, though, so maybe it just needs to wear in.
> - Doug :-)
>
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> End of type3-vwtype3.org Digest, Vol 56, Issue 1
> ************************************************
>
--
"I wrestled with reality for 36 years, and I'm happy to say I've finally
won out over it."
---Elwood P. Dowd
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