[T3] Trouble home from Bugorama

[Jacob Adam Schroeder]

Thank you, Jim and Keith.

I have pulled the 3/4 head and took a few pictures, the first of which is
available here:
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/AZNNeF852BbOT1Fh14F0XtMTjNZETYmyPJy0liipFm0?feat=directlink

I will follow your advice and take these to a shop I trust later this
morning.

My nuanced view is that there appears to be a lot of black stuff coating
the combustion chamber.  Is this carbon buildup and could this be caused by
running rich?  I was shocked to see the inside of the heads look like this
with only ~1000 miles on the engine.

Jacob


On Wed, Nov 4, 2015 at 6:21 PM, Keith Park <topnotch at nycap.rr.com> wrote:

> That looks like either a bad quality part or it wasnt ground or lapped in
> properly and burned thru.  quality parts are an ABSOLUTE MUST for our
> engines, TRW valves for instance, which berg was still selling last I
> looked.
>
> Keith\
>
> Topnotch Restorations
> topnotch at nycap.rr.com
> http://www.a383ina68.addr.com/radiorest/main.htm
> 71 Squareback  "Hothe"
> 65 Notchback  "El Baja Rojo"
> 93 RX7  "Redstur"
> 87 Golf  "Winterat"
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: type3-vwtype3.org [mailto:
> type3-vwtype3.org-bounces at lists.vwtype3.org]
> On Behalf Of Jacob Adam Schroeder
> Sent: Wednesday, November 04, 2015 10:04 AM
> To: type3 at vwtype3.org
> Subject: Re: [T3] Trouble home from Bugorama
>
> After nearly two months to cool off (and repeated thoughts to simply throw
> in the towel and sell the car--which I may ultimately do, but not yet), I
> finally dropped the engine and stripped it down to find out what happened.
>
> I had zero compression in cylinder 2 because the exhaust valve broke.  If
> you are interested in seeing the carnage, here it is:
>
> https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/pXLI0Qm-N97Lyzj7FkY5qNMTjNZETYmyPJy0li
> ipFm0?feat=directlink
>
> So this leaves me with a ton of questions for the list, but the biggest one
> is "now what"?  Moving forward, is this simply an issue of taking the head
> to somebody skilled with VW heads to have them replace the broken valve and
> then I can reinstall the head and carry on?  Is this something I can do
> myself in my garage or does this require specialized tools and skills?
> Also, is there anything else I should do to piston/cylinder 2, which don't
> appear to have any noticeable issues?
>
> Next, where did the rest of the valve likely go?  Did these get blown out
> the exhaust?  Is that part of the crud I see in the top of the cylinder
> head (melted valve)?
>
> Once I am on the other side, what was the likely cause of a broken valve on
> cylinder 2?  Overheating due to pushing the engine too hard?  I thought
> most of the time cylinder 3 is our weak spot.
>
> Thank you,
>
> Jacob
>
>
> On Sun, Sep 13, 2015 at 11:11 PM, Jim Adney <jadney at vwtype3.org> wrote:
>
> > On 13 Sep 2015 at 9:57, Jacob Adam Schroeder wrote:
> >
> > > It was worth a shot, but I didn't observe anything unusual about
> > cylinder 2
> > > over cylinder 1 when I performed this test.  It was cool to see the
> > valves
> > > open and close.
> >
> > If you were able to actually put a finger on each rocker and compare
> > the action between them, then those parts must be okay.
> >
> > It might still be useful to verify that #2 is getting spark and the
> > right amount of fuel.
> >
> > It's easy to test spark by putting the inductive pickup of your
> > timing light on that lead and making sure it flashes.
> >
> > Checking for the "right" amount of gas is harder. You can verify that
> > the #2 injector is working by opening the throttle with the ignition
> > ON but the engine not running. This will trigger one pair of
> > injectors. You can hear them click and feel it, too, if you  put a
> > hand on the injector. If #1 clicks, but #2 doesn't, rotate the engine
> > enough to advance the dizzy by 180 and repeat.
> >
> > Checking for too much fuel (injector not closing) is different. Start
> > the engine, then unplug the #2 injector and see if the engine speeds
> > up after a bit of time. If so, it was just flooded.
> >
> > Anything that causes that cylinder to not fire can lead to carbon
> > buildup on the valve seats and zero compression. You might still fix
> > this without an engine rebuild. A burned valve is still a
> > possibility, but it's not the only one, and it's a rare one in #2.
> >
> > --
> > *******************************
> > Jim Adney, jadney at vwtype3.org
> > Madison, Wisconsin, USA
> > *******************************
> >
> > _______________________________________________
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