[T3] Trouble home from Bugorama

[Keith Park]

That looks rather rich, if your gas mileage was low that would explain it.
that one side of the head is leaking rather badly at the seal, either it
wasnt lapped in properly or torqued right or maybe a stud is pulling?

Keith


Topnotch Restorations
topnotch at nycap.rr.com
http://www.a383ina68.addr.com/radiorest/main.htm
71 Squareback  "Hothe"
65 Notchback  "El Baja Rojo"
93 RX7  "Redstur"
87 Golf  "Winterat"
 
-----Original Message-----
From: type3-vwtype3.org [mailto:type3-vwtype3.org-bounces at lists.vwtype3.org]
On Behalf Of Jacob Adam Schroeder
Sent: Thursday, November 05, 2015 9:37 AM
To: type3 at vwtype3.org
Subject: Re: [T3] Trouble home from Bugorama

Thank you, Jim and Keith.

I have pulled the 3/4 head and took a few pictures, the first of which is
available here:
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/AZNNeF852BbOT1Fh14F0XtMTjNZETYmyPJy0li
ipFm0?feat=directlink

I will follow your advice and take these to a shop I trust later this
morning.

My nuanced view is that there appears to be a lot of black stuff coating
the combustion chamber.  Is this carbon buildup and could this be caused by
running rich?  I was shocked to see the inside of the heads look like this
with only ~1000 miles on the engine.

Jacob


On Wed, Nov 4, 2015 at 6:21 PM, Keith Park <topnotch at nycap.rr.com> wrote:

> That looks like either a bad quality part or it wasnt ground or lapped in
> properly and burned thru.  quality parts are an ABSOLUTE MUST for our
> engines, TRW valves for instance, which berg was still selling last I
> looked.
>
> Keith\
>
> Topnotch Restorations
> topnotch at nycap.rr.com
> http://www.a383ina68.addr.com/radiorest/main.htm
> 71 Squareback  "Hothe"
> 65 Notchback  "El Baja Rojo"
> 93 RX7  "Redstur"
> 87 Golf  "Winterat"
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: type3-vwtype3.org [mailto:
> type3-vwtype3.org-bounces at lists.vwtype3.org]
> On Behalf Of Jacob Adam Schroeder
> Sent: Wednesday, November 04, 2015 10:04 AM
> To: type3 at vwtype3.org
> Subject: Re: [T3] Trouble home from Bugorama
>
> After nearly two months to cool off (and repeated thoughts to simply throw
> in the towel and sell the car--which I may ultimately do, but not yet), I
> finally dropped the engine and stripped it down to find out what happened.
>
> I had zero compression in cylinder 2 because the exhaust valve broke.  If
> you are interested in seeing the carnage, here it is:
>
>
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/pXLI0Qm-N97Lyzj7FkY5qNMTjNZETYmyPJy0li
> ipFm0?feat=directlink
>
> So this leaves me with a ton of questions for the list, but the biggest
one
> is "now what"?  Moving forward, is this simply an issue of taking the head
> to somebody skilled with VW heads to have them replace the broken valve
and
> then I can reinstall the head and carry on?  Is this something I can do
> myself in my garage or does this require specialized tools and skills?
> Also, is there anything else I should do to piston/cylinder 2, which don't
> appear to have any noticeable issues?
>
> Next, where did the rest of the valve likely go?  Did these get blown out
> the exhaust?  Is that part of the crud I see in the top of the cylinder
> head (melted valve)?
>
> Once I am on the other side, what was the likely cause of a broken valve
on
> cylinder 2?  Overheating due to pushing the engine too hard?  I thought
> most of the time cylinder 3 is our weak spot.
>
> Thank you,
>
> Jacob
>
>
> On Sun, Sep 13, 2015 at 11:11 PM, Jim Adney <jadney at vwtype3.org> wrote:
>
> > On 13 Sep 2015 at 9:57, Jacob Adam Schroeder wrote:
> >
> > > It was worth a shot, but I didn't observe anything unusual about
> > cylinder 2
> > > over cylinder 1 when I performed this test.  It was cool to see the
> > valves
> > > open and close.
> >
> > If you were able to actually put a finger on each rocker and compare
> > the action between them, then those parts must be okay.
> >
> > It might still be useful to verify that #2 is getting spark and the
> > right amount of fuel.
> >
> > It's easy to test spark by putting the inductive pickup of your
> > timing light on that lead and making sure it flashes.
> >
> > Checking for the "right" amount of gas is harder. You can verify that
> > the #2 injector is working by opening the throttle with the ignition
> > ON but the engine not running. This will trigger one pair of
> > injectors. You can hear them click and feel it, too, if you  put a
> > hand on the injector. If #1 clicks, but #2 doesn't, rotate the engine
> > enough to advance the dizzy by 180 and repeat.
> >
> > Checking for too much fuel (injector not closing) is different. Start
> > the engine, then unplug the #2 injector and see if the engine speeds
> > up after a bit of time. If so, it was just flooded.
> >
> > Anything that causes that cylinder to not fire can lead to carbon
> > buildup on the valve seats and zero compression. You might still fix
> > this without an engine rebuild. A burned valve is still a
> > possibility, but it's not the only one, and it's a rare one in #2.
> >
> > --
> > *******************************
> > Jim Adney, jadney at vwtype3.org
> > Madison, Wisconsin, USA
> > *******************************
> >
> > _______________________________________________
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