[T3] DOT 5 and brake light switches

[Keith Park]

One thing you might try is populate both positions on the master with new
switches, then IF the one your using fails, see if the other is still good
or lasts as long as the first.  That will tell you if they fail from the
fluid or the current thru them.

Keith


Topnotch Restorations
topnotch at nycap.rr.com
http://www.a383ina68.addr.com/radiorest/main.htm
71 Squareback  "Hothe"
65 Notchback  "El Baja Rojo"
93 RX7  "Redstur"
87 Golf  "Winterat"
 
-----Original Message-----
From: type3-vwtype3.org [mailto:type3-vwtype3.org-bounces at lists.vwtype3.org]
On Behalf Of Sean Bartnik
Sent: Wednesday, November 18, 2015 3:29 PM
To: type3 at vwtype3.org
Subject: Re: [T3] DOT 5 and brake light switches

Jim,
Very interesting stuff. Thanks for taking the time to autopsy the switch in
the interest of bettering the knowledge base. 

To answer your question, those switches cost around $20. 

One other possibility for the apparent failure I guess would be the
possibility that sometime after installation, an air bubble worked itself
into the switch and was preventing the proper transfer of hydraulic pressure
to the diaphragm in the switch. That's the only other thing I could think of
that might cause the same symptoms if indeed the switch itself was good. 

Glad to hear the internal construction is like that of the original Ate
switches. 

I replaced the switch that you cut open with another identical switch that I
bought from the same supplier at the same time. It is also FTE and the only
difference is that it has the number 185 stamped on it instead of 165 which
was stamped on the one I sent you. 

The new FTE switch is still working properly. Obviously I'll update if/when
it fails. 

-Sean
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