[T3] Brake Bleeding

[William J]

 It's difficult to say since there is no info on what clogged the LF rubber 
line in the first place.

 If the LF has a good stream of fluid out the bleeder then it seemes like 
the MC works at least on the front .

 I would pull out the bleeder's and see if they are clogged first since they 
are the smallest passage that can clog and it not there work back from the 
RF hose by cracking the line and see if fluid comes out , may need to remove 
the line to really know then there are the steel lines to the front  hoses 
it may be easier to crack one loose where it fits to the RF rubber line.

 If rust comes out you may need to replace all the steel and rubber lines 
and hope the calipers and wheel cylinders are not rusty inside . Yet I have 
no idea what clogged the LF requiring replacement of the LF rubber line.

William
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "J. Jonik" <j_jonik at yahoo.com>
To: <type3 at vwtype3.org>
Sent: Sunday, April 17, 2016 1:12 PM
Subject: [T3] Brake Bleeding


> 71 Sqbk: Brakes got to need several foot pumps to work best.Jjust to make 
> sure things were tidy, I made sure rear brake pads were good thickness, 
> and adjusted. Put a bit more brake fluid in the reservoir, and began a 
> bleed job with a friend on the pedal.
> Right rear valve produced just a tiny spurt of air, then just drips 
> despite brake pedal being pushed down hard. Left rear....just drips, also 
> with no squirt. Front right, same thing.
> Front left, however, squirted like it's supposed to.
> So....is this hard evidence of Master Cylinder trouble? It can't be, can 
> it, that three out of four of the rubber brake lines going to the wheels 
> all clogged up around the same time.About a year (?) ago I had to replace 
> one of the front brake lines that was clogged solid. That was probably the 
> one that worked well today. Are the others just catching up?
> Then, IF it's the Master Cylinder...I have over half a dozen of them in my 
> brake box. All came from cars where they worked at the time the parts were 
> taken. Is it likely that they won't work after being dry and idle for 
> years?
> What's the recommended plan of attack on this job?
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