[T3] Brake Bleeding

Dave Hall dave at hallvw.clara.co.uk
Sun Apr 17 15:29:27 PDT 2016


The insides of the rubber hoses swell with age, and the layers can separate
and act like valves, stopping the free flow of fluid. What should be about a
1/8" hole is often down to maybe 1/16" or less.  I couldn't even blow
through an original front hose when I looked for what was stopping the
caliper working on my Fastback about 10 years ago.

The rears are less problematic, as they flex less, but eventually they will
close up too.  Jim has the correct rears - you won't find the right length
for the RH rear 'off the shelf' though the ones for the Type 2 Bus with CV
joints are close enough to use as an alternative if you can't hold on for
Jim.

Dave
UK VW Type 3&4 Club
===================  

-----Original Message-----
From: type3-vwtype3.org [mailto:type3-vwtype3.org-bounces at lists.vwtype3.org]
On Behalf Of J. Jonik
Sent: 17 April 2016 21:13
To: type3 at vwtype3.org
Subject: [T3] Brake Bleeding

71 Sqbk:   Brakes got to need several foot pumps to work best.Jjust to make
sure things were tidy, I made sure rear brake pads were good thickness, and
adjusted.  Put a bit more brake fluid in the reservoir, and began a bleed
job with a friend on the pedal.
Right rear valve produced just a tiny spurt of air, then just drips despite
brake pedal being pushed down hard. Left rear....just drips, also with no
squirt.   Front right, same thing. 
  Front left, however, squirted like it's supposed to.
So....is this hard evidence of Master Cylinder trouble?     It can't be, can
it, that three out of four of the rubber brake lines going to the wheels all
clogged up around the same time.About a year (?) ago I had to replace one of
the front brake lines that was clogged solid.  That was probably the one
that worked well today.  Are the others just catching up?
Then, IF it's the Master Cylinder...I have over half a dozen of them in my
brake box.  All came from cars where they worked at the time the parts were
taken.   Is it likely that they won't work after being dry and idle for
years?
What's the recommended plan of attack on this job?
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