[T3] Brake Bleeding Update

Sean Bartnik sjbartnik at mac.com
Wed Apr 20 15:46:43 PDT 2016


On re-using old rubber flex lines, no way Jose.  They deteriorate in service over time and with exposure to brake fluid - you have no way of knowing if they’re any good or not nor even whether they’re any better than what you have now.  If you are gonna put new flex lines in you put new ones in or you don’t do it at all.  Brakes are not a place to dick around.

The thin metal plates are anti-squeal shims.  You definitely want them installed or your brakes will sing to you every time you hit the pedal.  But they are not relevant to brake bleeding.

-Sean


> On Apr 20, 2016, at 6:39 PM, J. Jonik <j_jonik at yahoo.com> wrote:
> 
> Good tips from all over.  Thanks.-  I did take off, wipe, and blow easily through all the bleeder valves...except the frozen one...top one of double valve caliper.  
> 
> -  Have that stuck valve hit well with Liquid Wrench. Will use 7 mm socket instead of regular combo wrench.   Long ago, I broke off a couple of valves...but actually managed to use extractor to get them out. Hole for extractor tool is conveniently ready-made.
> - A sort of nearby VW etc mechanic, hearing the problem, thought first to advise "get new flex lines".    I already have new front flex lines (one installed) and rear ones are available to order for about $19 each.    Practiced removing rear lines from one of my parts cars.  Not An Easy Job.  Haven't finished yet.   Don't know if it's a good idea to use old 1972 rear flex lines on my '71.  Is the rubber likely to be untrustworthy even if they turn out to be open inside?-   Thanks for warning about playing with the pedal push-rod.
> - And...those little, formed, thin metal plates that fit in calipers between the metal pad backing  and the piston....essential?  Relevant to this bleeding deal? 



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