[T3] Brake Bleeding Update

[Keith Park]

its probably not the master, dont replace anything till you know for sure
its bad.  One frozen piston on each caliper will do this, as well as out of
adjustment rear brakes

Keith

Topnotch Restorations
topnotch at nycap.rr.com
http://www.a383ina68.addr.com/radiorest/main.htm
71 Squareback  "Hothe"
65 Notchback  "El Baja Rojo"
93 RX7  "Redstur"
87 Golf  "Winterat"
 
-----Original Message-----
From: type3-vwtype3.org [mailto:type3-vwtype3.org-bounces at lists.vwtype3.org]
On Behalf Of J. Jonik
Sent: Wednesday, April 20, 2016 12:55 PM
To: type3 at vwtype3.org
Subject: [T3] Brake Bleeding Update

71  Squareback:
 
Brake pedal still can't be adjusted correctly, and still needs to be pumped
a couple of times to work OK.

The situation:  

- Made sure brake pads, front and rear, were good thickness.
- Freed up and greased one of the rear adjustment gear things. 

- No leaks anywhere.
- Reservoir filled to proper level. Cap loosened, and hand-brake off, when
bleeding.
- Top valve in a front double-valve caliper is frozen in place.
- Wheels, with car raised, all cannot be turned when brake pedal is pushed
down with a stick pushing against the driver's seat.


Still, only one of the front valves, when opened, produces a good squirt and
lets pedal go to the floor during bleeding.  The other front one (with the
frozen 2nd valve) does a little squirt.  None produce apparent air...just a
dribbling flow of fluid.  


(Doesn't that fluid, and the fact that brakes hold the wheels solidly, show
that hoses aren't blocked?)

I'd hate to just try a new Master Cylinder, just in case that's the problem.
Found new master cylinders on-line for about $35.  Worth a try?

Long shot:  What about re-adjusting...lengthening...the push-rod from pedal
to cylinder?  How bad must car rust be to make that go out of adjustment?
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