[T3] Brake Bleeding Update

[J. Jonik]

Good tips from all over.  Thanks.-  I did take off, wipe, and blow easily through all the bleeder valves...except the frozen one...top one of double valve caliper.  

-  Have that stuck valve hit well with Liquid Wrench. Will use 7 mm socket instead of regular combo wrench.   Long ago, I broke off a couple of valves...but actually managed to use extractor to get them out. Hole for extractor tool is conveniently ready-made.
- A sort of nearby VW etc mechanic, hearing the problem, thought first to advise "get new flex lines".    I already have new front flex lines (one installed) and rear ones are available to order for about $19 each.    Practiced removing rear lines from one of my parts cars.  Not An Easy Job.  Haven't finished yet.   Don't know if it's a good idea to use old 1972 rear flex lines on my '71.  Is the rubber likely to be untrustworthy even if they turn out to be open inside?-   Thanks for warning about playing with the pedal push-rod.
- And...those little, formed, thin metal plates that fit in calipers between the metal pad backing  and the piston....essential?  Relevant to this bleeding deal? 
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From: "William J" <catnine09 at dslextreme.com>
To: <type3 at vwtype3.org>
Subject: Re: [T3] Brake Bleeding Update
Message-ID: <76EAF79F2F544C85861BB7791FFE6DBF at acere355056e8b>
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    reply-type=original

 I still say you need to remove all the bleeder screws and check the 2 small 
holes on the inner end of the bleeder screws and also the one the fluid 
bleeds out of . I you don't you are wasting your time.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "J. Jonik" <j_jonik at yahoo.com>
To: <type3 at vwtype3.org>
Sent: Wednesday, April 20, 2016 9:55 AM
Subject: [T3] Brake Bleeding Update


> 71  Squareback:
>
> Brake pedal still can't be adjusted correctly, and still needs to be 
> pumped a couple of times to work OK.
>
> The situation:
>
> - Made sure brake pads, front and rear, were good thickness.
> - Freed up and greased one of the rear adjustment gear things.
>
> - No leaks anywhere.
> - Reservoir filled to proper level. Cap loosened, and hand-brake off, when 
> bleeding.
> - Top valve in a front double-valve caliper is frozen in place.
> - Wheels, with car raised, all cannot be turned when brake pedal is pushed 
> down with a stick pushing against the driver's seat.
>
>
> Still, only one of the front valves, when opened, produces a good squirt 
> and lets pedal go to the floor during bleeding.  The other front one (with 
> the frozen 2nd valve) does a little squirt.  None produce apparent 
> air...just a dribbling flow of fluid.
>
>
> (Doesn't that fluid, and the fact that brakes hold the wheels solidly, 
> show that hoses aren't blocked?)
>
> I'd hate to just try a new Master Cylinder, just in case that's the 
> problem.  Found new master cylinders on-line for about $35.  Worth a try?
>
> Long shot:  What about re-adjusting...lengthening...the push-rod from 
> pedal to cylinder?  How bad must car rust be to make that go out of 
> adjustment?
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