[T3] I want to change my brake fluid it's been a while? 73 SB

Jim Adney jadney at VWType3.org
Sun May 15 19:27:26 PDT 2016


William,

You're getting yourself WAY too worked up about this. Any way you do 
it will be fine. Getting air in the system is not a problem. It 
happens with any brake work and is easily bled out. Don't let 
yourself get carried away with worrying about things this trivial.

On 15 May 2016 at 18:51, William J wrote:

> Instead of pumping the pedal to get the old fuild out is it possible just to 
> crack the RF lower bleeder with the top one open and keep adding  fluid to 
> the reservoir so no air enters the system ? Won't that drain all the old 
> fluid out or is there some reason the master won't allow this without 
> pumping? Then I can move to the LF and then R rear and then L rear. I just 
> don't feel comfortable pumping and letting air in with the old master and 
> calipers .
> 
>  I have watched a few videos that show it being done this way and they 
> remove most of the old reservoir fluid and top off new and when the old 
> fuild enters a jar through a hose you can see the old dark fluid , empty the 
> jar and continue on until you see clean fluid coming out.
> 
> William
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Jim Adney" <jadney at VWType3.org>
> To: <type3 at vwtype3.org>
> Sent: Friday, May 13, 2016 2:03 PM
> Subject: Re: [T3] I want to change my brake fluid it's been a while? 73 SB
> 
> 
> > If you want to get as much old fluid as possible out of the system,
> > you're committed to letting a lot of air in. There's no way around
> > that.
> >
> > Once you've got as much old fluid out as possible, you can just
> > gravity bleed, which works great. Just don't get in a hurry. It's a
> > good way to do this when you're working alone. It gives you plenty of
> > time to make sure the reservoir stays full.
> >
> > I would pump as much out of the regular bleeders as you can, until
> > you suck air into the MC. Then open the bottom bleeders and let the
> > calipers drain. Let them drain while you do something else for a half
> > hour.
> >
> > Then close the bottom bleeders and fill the reservoir. Close the
> > bleeders on the LF, LR, and RR. Watch the RF until fluid starts
> > coming out, then close that valve.
> >
> > Open the LF and watch it. Check the reservoir.
> >
> > Repeat for the rears.
> >
> > Check for good pedal. If it's still soft, pump a few times, to drive
> > bubbles to the top of the wheels, and let more fluid/air out at each
> > wheel.
> >
> > On 13 May 2016 at 11:24, William J wrote:
> >
> >> Just so I've got this right. If I remove most of the fluid from the
> >> reservoir then strarting with the right front caliper I should open the
> >> lower bleeder  and this will gravity drain all the fluid from both 
> >> pistons
> >> or do I need to also open the top bleeder and of course maintain the
> >> reservoir level ? Then do the left front then R rear the L rear each one 
> >> at
> >> a time? So if I keep the reservoir full this will not only flush or drain
> >> out all the old fluid and also not introduce air into the system ? I'm
> >> calling this drain/ gravity bleed , I have the time. If for some reason 
> >> air
> >> is introduced then I go to the hose and jar method ? I have read that 
> >> air
> >> can be pulled in through the bleeder screw threads or is this only an 
> >> issue
> >> if one backs out the bleeders more than cracking them say a 1/4 or 1/2 
> >> turn.
> >>
> >> William
> >> ----- Original Message ----- 
> >> From: "Dave Hall" <dave at hallvw.clara.co.uk>
> >> To: <type3 at vwtype3.org>
> >> Sent: Friday, May 13, 2016 5:30 AM
> >> Subject: Re: [T3] I want to change my brake fluid it's been a while? 73 
> >> SB
> >>
> >>
> >> > I've a simple piece of rubber pressure tubing that has a screw in the
> >> > lower
> >> > end, and a slit cut with a Stanley knife (eg) which fits on a bleed 
> >> > screw
> >> > and acts as a one way valve.  Press on the pedal and the fluid squirts 
> >> > out
> >> > of the slit, without allowing air back in.  Good for single-handed
> >> > bleeding,
> >> > but rather slow for changing fluid.
> >> >
> >> > Dave
> >> > UK VW Type 3&4 Club
> >> > ===================
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> > ---
> >> > This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
> >> > https://www.avast.com/antivirus
> >> >
> >> > _______________________________________________
> >> > VWType3.Org mailing list - type3 at vwtype3.org
> >> > To unsubscribe or change subscription options, visit:
> >> > http://lists.vwtype3.org/listinfo.cgi/type3-vwtype3.org
> >> > If you need more help, contact: gregm at vwtype3.org
> >> >
> >>
> >>
> >> ---
> >> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
> >> https://www.avast.com/antivirus
> >>
> >>
> >> _______________________________________________
> >> VWType3.Org mailing list - type3 at vwtype3.org
> >> To unsubscribe or change subscription options, visit:
> >> http://lists.vwtype3.org/listinfo.cgi/type3-vwtype3.org
> >> If you need more help, contact: gregm at vwtype3.org
> >
> >
> > -- 
> > *******************************
> > Jim Adney, jadney at vwtype3.org
> > Madison, Wisconsin, USA
> > *******************************
> >
> > _______________________________________________
> > VWType3.Org mailing list - type3 at vwtype3.org
> > To unsubscribe or change subscription options, visit:
> > http://lists.vwtype3.org/listinfo.cgi/type3-vwtype3.org
> > If you need more help, contact: gregm at vwtype3.org
> > 
> 
> 
> ---
> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
> https://www.avast.com/antivirus
> 
> 
> _______________________________________________
> VWType3.Org mailing list - type3 at vwtype3.org
> To unsubscribe or change subscription options, visit:
> http://lists.vwtype3.org/listinfo.cgi/type3-vwtype3.org
> If you need more help, contact: gregm at vwtype3.org


-- 
*******************************
Jim Adney, jadney at vwtype3.org
Madison, Wisconsin, USA
*******************************



More information about the type3-vwtype3.org mailing list