[T3] Engine Oil

Mike Fisher fisherfarms at gmail.com
Wed Sep 20 11:53:16 PDT 2017


Get the car to a Sacramento area VW Shop immediately!

On Mon, Sep 18, 2017 at 2:12 PM, Mara Johnson <drmarajjohnson at gmail.com>
wrote:

> HI, I can't believe it....I just happened to catch mention of the Type 3
> invasion!!!  I am so excited!  I wrote some time back about my 66 sqbk and
> how I recently had an engine rebuild.  Started to drive it, but for example
> drove from work to store (20 min, engine not hot).  Shop, come back to car,
> and won't start.  Kicks over pretty good first turn of key.  Next turn bogs
> down and keeps bogging further down with each subsequent attempt to start.
>
> I can get going again with a push start (labored start) OR if I wait an
> hour or more.  It starts up after sitting overnight no problem.  The
> problem surfaced after the first 300 miles of driving on the newly rebuilt
> engine.
>
> Now I have some ideas and intend to first go through electrical connections
> and ensure they are good and shiny.  Make sure carbs are clean and
> balanced.  Of course tune.  Have new starter already.
>
> I REALLY want to go to the rally.  I have 2 weeks to make my ride more
> dependable.  Could anyone please suggest anything else to try?
>
> Mara Davis CA
>
> On Sat, Sep 16, 2017 at 3:04 PM, Phil Hof <phil.hof at ostronic.org> wrote:
>
> > There are literally hundreds of pages on oil in the Samba!  One more
> > voice, FWIW…
> >
> > My rebuilder recommended VR-1 30 weight after he rebuilt the long block.
> > With the damage I probably did driving to/from the Invasion, I found I
> had
> > low oil pressure when hot, so I went to 20W-50 (and the racing oil at
> that,
> > for the high temp tolerance).  Plus 4oz ZDDP additive at oil changes, per
> > his recommendation.
> >
> > Along with replacing my broken distributor (that had been WAY over
> > advancing on that trip), this seems to have brought my pressures and
> > temperatures where they need to be.  I may have done damage, because at
> my
> > oil change this morning, I found light metal flakes caught by the screen
> (I
> > also have a spin-on full flow filter, which I may cut open one of these
> > days).
> >
> > My fingers are crossed for the Type 3 Rally up the SoCal coast at the end
> > of this month.  After that, I may pull the motor and split the case to
> find
> > what I chewed up.
> >
> > That oil and additive are expensive, and I change it by the calendar, not
> > the odometer, since I drive maybe a couple of thousand miles a year at
> most
> > (save for the Invasion and Rally).
> >
> > -Phil
> >
> > > ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> > > Message: 1
> > > Date: Sat, 16 Sep 2017 10:44:13 -0500
> > > From: Gary Forsmo <gbforsmo at gmail.com>
> > > To: "type3 at vwtype3.org" <type3 at vwtype3.org>
> > > Subject: [T3] Engine Oil
> > > Message-ID:
> > >       <CAN8eaV_5znmpPXMcy3Xc3Wf2yRj_dmPmZSCg7vY6TeCA+OipPA at mail.
> > gmail.com>
> > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> > >
> > > Within our Type 3 group, what engine oil is popular?
> > >
> > >   1. Price per quart or
> > >   2. 12-quart case?
> > >
> > >
> > > Do any of you insist on using an engine oil which either has
> > >
> > >   1. Zinc dialkyldithiophosphate (ZDDP) *IN* the oil or
> > >   2. do you *add* approximately 4 oz. of ZDDP, when you change your
> oil?
> > >
> > > I have periodically used Valvoline VR1 10W-30 Racing Oil and Amsoil
> Z-Rod
> > > 10W-30.  Both are quite expensive.
> > >
> > > Are those oils worth the expense, given most of us drive a few hundred
> > or a
> > > few thousand miles a year?
> > > ************************************************
> >
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-- 
Eugene, Oregon

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