[T3] body and pan removal

[Bobnotch]

Hi Doug,
Dave Hall got quite a bit of it. If you do a search in the Samba Gallery (I think I put it under type 3 parts and accessories) I have a couple of pics that show where the all of the bolts are hiding. You'll want to use user Bobnotch for your search.
That said, I've done done several body off's with a type 34 Ghia being the hardest due to the added pieces for the rear kick panel. The biggest things to remember are to unplug the wiring to the brake MC and removing the speedo cable (I can't tell you how easy it is to forget that one). Also under the rear under the gray plastic caps are 2 that like to hide.There's also the 2 bolts that go into the top of the rear subframe from/thru the slotted holes in the floor. There's 11or 14 bolts/screws per side, 2 up at the beam, 6 across the rear, and the 4 I mentioned above.
When it comes time to lift the body off, pull the hood and both rear fenders. Run the strap around the front bulkhead in the trunk, and use the 2 holes at the front of the side air vents for lifting points. This will get you a nice balanced lifting set up. If you're doing a Notch or a T-34, those 2 holes don't exist, as only Squares and Fastbacks have them.
Just pay attention when lifting for any wires or cables that might still be attached. Also, on some years VW used a mastic like sealer that can be a PIA to release, so have a sharp cutting tool handy.
I hope this helps.
Bob


-----Original Message-----
From: Dave Hall <dave at hallvw.clara.co.uk>
To: type3 <type3 at vwtype3.org>
Sent: Tue, Apr 24, 2018 7:19 pm
Subject: Re: [T3] body and pan removal


Hi Doug
I've removed body from floorpan for scrapping Type 3s, but not expecting to
have to reassemble. If all the bolts come undone OK, they separate without
too much trouble, but you will need them to screw back in as well. There
are bolts and spacers in the trunk/engine area that you don't want to lose.
They're under lift up sections of the lining. The body has most of the
threaded holes apart from those under the rear seat which are fitted from
inside into the floorpan.
There are no bolts across the front of the pan, just the two long ones at
each front corner. The front body attaches to the upper axle mountings.

Unless the pan is also a '73 or late '72, you may find the front seat mounts
are different.

It would be wise to check there is no problem with the registration through
swapping pans as the VIN number is stamped on the floorpan, and there is a
matching plate on the body. In the UK it would change the vehicle ID.

It's a lengthy process to do, and rusty bolts are likely to be a problem.
Generally if the pan has rust issues, so will the lower body, and quite a
number of the bolts thread into the lower body.

Suffice to say that the workshop manuals don't cover the procedure for the
good reason that it's not something the normal owner would contemplate - but
we're not normal owners!

If you want, I could email photos of the order to do the procedure from the
official repair manual. It's a '65 manual, so it mentions things like
undoing the rear engine mounting bolts, which would be the engine mounts at
the side on yours. It shows a Fastback body lifted off the floorpan in one
of the pictures.

I've known one UK owner who imported a rust-free body from the USA, and
swapped over all his components, and restored the running gear, had the dash
from his RHD grafted into the LHD body, to end up with almost a brand new
car, but it cost about the same as a brand new car to do.

I hope that helps.

Dave
UK VW Type 3&4 Club
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