[T3] Brake Pipes

S UNSWORTH s.unsworth816 at btinternet.com
Fri Jul 27 00:04:42 PDT 2018


It’s much easier to make the Front to Rear Brake Pipe in 2 halves, using a double ended female connector half way. I did the same thing on our ‘66 Beetle ( Bug ) as well.
Making those Flares in situ is easy using a Sykes Picavant Hydraulic Flaring Tool. The tool is designed to be used that way i.e. hand held on the car. 

I changed all our ‘72 Type 3 Brake Pipes to Kunifer, replaced the entire Braking System with new parts in fact.
Steve
Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPad


On Thursday, July 26, 2018, 9:14 pm, type3-vwtype3.org-request at lists.vwtype3.org wrote:

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Today's Topics:

  1. Re: Brake Line grommet (Jim Adney)


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Message: 1
Date: Thu, 26 Jul 2018 13:32:14 -0500
From: "Jim Adney" <jadney at vwtype3.org>
To: type3 at vwtype3.org
Subject: Re: [T3] Brake Line grommet
Message-ID: <5B5A13AE.16342.23F5F816 at jadney.vwtype3.org>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII

On 26 Jul 2018 at 13:18, Joe Plowick III wrote:

> Yep, I'm making a new line.  I had bought 25' of the Nickel copper stuff
> to re-do the lines at the wheels.  Since I had a lot left, I decided I
> would try re-doing the line through the car since it was looking rough
> too.  Like I've seen mentioned before, I think I'm going to split it into
> two lines and couple them under the rear seat.  With the NiCU lines being
> pretty soft, it may be possible to run it as one line, but doing the
> flares under the car doesn't sound like fun.

The CuNI stuff is the way to go. With that, you'll never have to worry about 
rust again, so there's really no point in breaking that long line in half (and 
doubling the possible leak points.)

Just cut your old line into 3 pieces, remove them, and measure them. Add a 
couple inches for good measure. It will go in easily. The hard part is dealing 
with the Tee at the rear. It's just very close quarters.


-- 
*******************************
Jim Adney, jadney at vwtype3.org
Madison, Wisconsin, USA
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