[T3] '73 Idle Test

William Jahn willjahn975 at gmail.com
Fri Aug 30 10:01:13 PDT 2019

 Yes it was #30 & #87 . I just removed the screw that holds the relay and
put the ground wire back with the relay up side down and did the voltage
drop with the engine running everything connected and did the voltage drop
test first I thought I mentioned that yet didn't . I only read mA    At
this point is when the ground keep falling off the relay so I repaired it
and did the test again , then removed the leads off #30 & #87  put the ohm
meter across and just turned on the key to power the relay coil and saw the
high ohm reading. Just to be certain after removing the relay cover I
manually closed the contacts and got the same reading. The power relay coil
powers up with just the key on.

 I tried placing the star washer on the screw first yet it dug into the
screw and ground ring when I tried to tighten it grabbed the ground ring
rotating it , I just placed it between to at least keep the entire assembly

 I can tell you it did not run very good with TS1 connected once it warmed
up and I set the idle to 1000 RPM in park (auto trans) it had that insane
erratic miss and if I brought the RPM up and let off the gas it backfired ,
more like a loud pop so I ended up just unplugging TS1 and resetting the
idle . I have to try it again since the power relay repair to see. If that
doesn't do it then I'm not sure what's next . I keep thinking it might be
an issue with TS1 either at some temp grounding one pin out or temp with
engine running vibration. Either that or it goes out of spec with to high
of resistance making it far to rich I do know the result of it going open .
I just need to connect an ohm meter since TS1 in unplugged any way and
watch what it really does. I haven't read of one going bad I imagine they
can .

 I runs fine and drives fine with TS1 out of the picture it's the low MPG
that I want to address . See I've been told and have read unplugging TS1
causes up to 10% more fuel to air across the board which makes me suspect
it's lean . My fuel gauge does not read correct I suspect the sender yet I
know just how it reacts based on how many gallons I put in the gauge will
rise to a certain point and read the trip meter and odometer even driving a
20 mile round trip  1/4 tank is gone. It's not specific like filling
driving the filling yet it's consistent and with all of that I never had an
issue with TS1 connected like I do now , I cannot recall when it started it
was sometime between 2006 and 2009 , I only heard popping and then trying
to see what the charging system put out at 2500 RPM I noted how the engine
would struggle to keep a steady RPM until it hit 2500 RPM then it was fine
, unplugging TS1 was just to see what the result would be based on what I
read and it fixed those issues . I had an exhaust leak and fixed that
because even with TS1 unplugged it would still pop on decell once I fixed
the leak that stopped.  I just have a feeling if I put in a new TS1 and TS2
along with repairing the power relay these issues would be fixed. I don't
think it's the ECU or the MPS. In 2009 when I noticed this issue I removed
the ECU and checked every single FI lead for continuity , short to ground
and to see if any leads were some how contacting each other or crossed and
found nothing even checked to each component from the ECU plug to see if
there was resistance in the harness and each component read proper then
unplugged each and checked again could not find one issue not even moving
wires to try to force an issue. Tried adding resistance to TS2 didn't help
or change a thing. I've been doing auto electrical repair for over 45 years
and always found the problem and at least if you narrowed it down and felt
it was a component you could try a known good part out to verify , well not

On Fri, Aug 30, 2019 at 5:23 AM Jim Adney <jadney at vwtype3.org> wrote:

> On 29 Aug 2019 at 16:23, William Jahn wrote:
> > All I could find was the power relay which #30 and #47 disconnected
> > and an ohm meter across them it had 42 ohms resistance and was
> > consistent.
> Would that be #30 and #87? And I don't know how you measure this
> resistance because those contacts are open unless the engine is running,
> or
> trying to run.
> The way to do this test would be to measure the voltage drop between #30
> and #87 with the engine running. Anything over a few 10s of millivolts
> would
> be a problem.
> At any rate, 47 Ohms is HUGE.
> > Not having another I removed the metal cover and as one would clean
> > trigger points dragging paper through the contacts it's now .02 ohm.
> Which sounds great.
> > Put the cover back on just bending the 6 peens back .
> Just what I would have done. BTW, I have good used relays if you want a
> spare.
> > Also the ground wire when I had the relay upside down kept coming off
> > the female spade was split 1/3 of the way opposite the rolled edges
> > near the end . It never cut out on me so this was not the issue yet I
> > had another factory female with wire in good shape and replaced it.
> > also placed a star washer between the relay hold down and the metal
> > wall.
> Sounds good, except that I would have put the star washer under the screw
> head, followed by the ground lug and then the mounting tab.
> Now you just need to see if this made any difference in how the engine
> runs.
> If I understood your description correctly, this should have made a big
> difference.
> --
> *******************************
> Jim Adney, jadney at vwtype3.org
> Madison, Wisconsin, USA
> *******************************
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