[T3] Unmovable Driver Seat

[Keith Park]

and air chisel does amazing things too, but you need some meat to put it
against.

Keith


Topnotch Restorations
topnotch at nycap.rr.com
http://www.topnotchresto.com
71 Squareback  “Hothe”
65 Notchback  “El Baja Rojo”
93 RX7  “Redstur”
95 Chrysler Cirrus Lxi "Cirfogsalot"
"hanging out at the tail end of the bell
curve, and loving every minute of it!" 
-----Original Message-----
From: type3-vwtype3.org [mailto:type3-vwtype3.org-bounces at lists.vwtype3.org]
On Behalf Of donrob at yachtsales.com
Sent: Friday, March 08, 2019 10:18 AM
To: type3 at vwtype3.org
Subject: Re: [T3] Unmovable Driver Seat

I learned a long time ago that to release a stuck (or pressed, like a 
ball joint or tie rod end)part requires all three things at once: 
penetrating oil (LOTS of it, it WILL go uphill), steady pressure (your 
jack method) and a sharp rap from an appropriate hammer.

The effect of the hammer is multiplied at LEAST 5 times by the steady 
pressure, and vice versa.  Think of removing a steering wheel with a 
puller...  you set up the puller with LOTS of pressure and nothing 
happens... you rap the top of the puller with a hammer and BANG, it pops 
right off.

Don Robertson
905 566-0000 (cell)
donrob at fastmail.com





On 2019-03-08 09:53, Jim Adney wrote:
> On 7 Mar 2019 at 23:34, J. Jonik wrote:
> 
>> I tried but cannot get the driver's seat ('71 T-III) to slide forward
>> or backward...even though the release lever works fine.  Tracks are
>> frozen with rust, corrosion, and time.   Trouble is that, without
>> turning the car upside-down, Liquid Wrench or other rust treatment
>> cannot go uphill to drench the sliding parts.  I used hydraulic jack
>> pushing against heavy lumber in back seat area....and big hammers.   
>> No
>> luck.   Anyone know other tricks?
> 
> Once those tracks have gotten rusty and stuck it's hard to break them 
> loose.
> I never thought of the jack method, but that sounds reasonable. I 
> wouldn't
> expect to be able to break both sides loose at once; concentrate on 
> just one
> side, then the other. And be sure to have the seat released while 
> you're
> doing this.
> 
> I've usually used a very heavy lead hammer, This always works 
> eventually,
> but usually damages the seat base. I suspect that the shock a hammer
> provides may be more effective than the slow force of the jack, but you 
> might
> try leaving the jack in place while you let the oil soak overnight.
> 
> Even though it's "uphill" I think oil will make its way to where it
> needs to go,
> but it will take time. Use something that won't evaporate, so you can 
> let it
> soak in for a couple days, then try the jack or the hammer.
> 
> Once you get the seat free, remove it completely and clean out all the 
> parts.
> Straighten the floor rails, which will be bent, and coat the seat 
> grooves with
> heavy grease.
> 
> I have the plastic slides if you need them.
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