[T3] 73 type 3 FI ignition condenser ?

[William Jahn]

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

From: Jim Adney
Sent: Saturday, March 16, 2019 9:31 PM
To: type3 at vwtype3.org
Subject: Re: [T3] 73 type 3 FI ignition condenser ?

On 16 Mar 2019 at 11:10, William Jahn wrote:

> I saw one on-line store selling  2 versions of Bosch points that fit
> the later Type 3´s one with the stronger spring. J-Bugs has that
> choice. 

I measured the spring tension with a fisherman's scale, which 
indicated that the 044 points pulled ~1.5 oz while the stronger one 
was ~2.5 oz. If you've read the Bill Fisher book, you know that one 
racer trick is to double up the 044 spring to get twice the spring 
force to get reliable operation at very high rpm. The stronger spring 
points makes this easy, but it's unnecessary and counterproductive 
for stock operation at normal rpm.

 I plan on sticking with the stock points. I got a Bosch set which is made in Mexico and another set that are made in Taiwan . The Bosch set needs to be aligned the other doesn’t , also the other set has a E clip on the top of the pivot, can’t say if that’s really needed. I have to say the quality is not quite what I’d like . I never get to actually see points since no FLAPs here other than auto zone carries them . There are sets from Standard ign and Delco Remy that look the same yet different than the Bosch yet before I go there I’ll try the Bosch. I used the type Delco Remy sells before seemed good.

>  I got a set of NGK plus B6HS. Their site says not to use anti-seize
> yet when I emailed them they said just use a small amount and if not
> using a torque wrench just screw in until it stops and give them 1/3
> to 1/2 turn . The Bentley states 20 to 25 foot pounds and also states
> to use anti-seize and as most know anti-seize acts as a lube and you
> end up with a higher torque .
 
 

I agree that the 20-25 ft-lbs is too high. I use MoS2 antiseize and 
tighten to touch, then a bit snugger. I think the only time I tried 
to torque to 25 I stripped out the threads in the head. I'll never do 
that again.

 I did that once when I rebuilt this engine from the 72 , the treads were stripped on 2 so I had the place who rebuilt these heads install Timeserts on all 4 and they did a great job, at that point I tried using a torque wrench and when it got to 15 ft lb’s it felt to much I removed the plug and used another since the washer was crushed . Before that and since then I always run a thread chaser just to clean any carbon and old anti-seize out and a ¼” drive ratchet with a 3/8” adapter for the plug socket and old snap on one with the rubber insert . I feel once the crush washer is seated as you then a bit more is more than enough. 

>  I looked at Bosch´s site , they don´t list much and what I see they
> are all WR8AC with 5k ohm´s , I´d rather not add resistance where it
> was never designed to be.

5k is no problem, simply because the current is so tiny. Keep in mind 
that the rotor is 5k, and earlier 6 V cars used carbon core wire 
which had 20-50k, depending on the length, and still worked just 
fine.

 I had a 66 bug , I don’t recall what sort of wire it used that was in 1970 and a 68 ghia the 68 was 12 volt . I had to run a special power adapter on the 66 ,6 volt to use an 8 track 

If you use resistor plugs, you can switch the SP connectors to ones 
with zero resistance, which eliminates the connector as a potential 
trouble spot. I have those connectors if you want to switch. While I 
haven't done it yet, switching to resistor plugs is actually a nice 
upgrade, since that gets you a fresh resistor with every SP change.

I’ve thought of going that route yet  I never had any issues with the 1K ohm resister ends and have 4 spares that I put on this car in 85 and  they were still good as were the wires . Both were Bosch sets yet I noticed both have a 90 degree boot on the cap yet a straight connector as well as a carbon fiber coil wire , I used to make wire sets in the 70’s yet don’t have any more 90 degree cap ends. These work fine . Are you saying if using resister plugs use solid core wire and since the rotor has 5k – the 1k ends you end up with 9K ?

OTOH, I still have some NOS W8ACs and W8APs for anyone who prefers to 
stay old school.

 I’m quite happy to stay old school . NGK does make a nice set of plug wires for these cars, they have the correct ends 1k resister and a solid core coil wire. I don’t think Bosch makes the wire set I got a few years ago any more. 

 I never really considered buying more W8AC plugs or German Bosch points and condensers when they were still available , didn’t think at that time they would stop making them same with the trigger points , I bought a new Bosch set in 2001 and cannot recall what I did with the other 2 sets that still had a lot of life left in them , probably walked away when my tool box was lifted around that time. I always saved points and thing s like that just in case. I had real old craftsman tools and Snap-on and Mac . Still have some just none of the ½ drive tools. My timing light and dwell tach worked well and they vanished as well. I’ll be  setting points with a feeler gauge now which works fine and got a timing light from auto-zone yet it does not have the tach or adjustment for reading advance which was nice to have. The Bentley states .016 to .020 for points I always did .018 felt it was a midpoint.  

 I’m sort of exited to try points again , The Pertronix has been fine yet I don’t recall it running any better than with points. 

-- 
*******************************
Jim Adney, jadney at vwtype3.org
Madison, Wisconsin, USA
*******************************

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