[T3] On my 73 square , what should I look at on the breather with a PCV?

[William Jahn]

I've wiggled the connector and it makes no difference at all. I don't need
to plug it all the way in , once it makes contact the insane miss begins.
If I push it all the way in nothing changes. I do know the head temp sensor
in the car now does not always read the same resistance at the same temp
and when I removed it I could see a dark area under that whitish plastic
cover and when I pulled the cover back I could see an area just above the
top of the sensor where the insulation was one , no broken strands yet they
were dull copper not bright clean so perhaps that might cause an issue . I
have another old one that I tested and checked and the wire and insulation
is fine I'll put that in just to see if that helps. Not that I think for a
second all will become great yet who knows. Nothing lasts forever. I pulled
out one I had in before this and it read real high when I replaced it with
this one it was a bit better.

On Tue, Sep 10, 2019 at 3:06 PM Jim Adney <jadney at vwtype3.org> wrote:

> On 10 Sep 2019 at 11:29, William Jahn wrote:
>
> > I read on rennlist about the slop where the trigger points mount that
> > it should be set to the center point since it will alter the point when
> > the injectors fire .
>
> That's a red herring, because Bosch advanced the injector timing by about
> 30 degrees in '72. That huge change made only a tiny difference, and then
> only when the engine was cold.
>
> > Pertronix told me these units can fail by not working or fail where it
> > can cause a miss yet that does not explain why it does not miss with
> > the air temp unplugged.
>
> Yes, we know the Pertronix is not the problem.
>
> >  The only thing that makes sense in my mind is either there is a voltage
> > drop to the ECU from the power relay.
>
> What makes NO sense is the fact that you found and fixed a huge problem
> IN the relay and didn't see any change in operation. Fixing that should
> have
> made a huge improvement. Sure, check for a problem in the wires, but those
> are probably fine, unless they've been messed with a lot.
>
> > or high resistance in the air temp sensor wires to the ECU or perhaps
> > the head temp sensor to ECU
>
> It can't be those wires, because any "high" resistance in those wires or
> connections would still be small compared to the resistance of the sensors
> themselves.
>
> > or the air temp sensor itself is erratic when connected.
>
> That's possible. Have you tried a different sensor?
>
> You might also GENTLY pull back the boot on the sensor connector and
> check to make sure the wires in there are okay. It might be that just
> moving
> the cable is what's making the difference..
>
> > I've checked the fuel pressure several times and it's always 30 PSI .
>
> When there are problems, I prefer to test it while driving, because a
> restriction in the line, a clogged filter, bad pump (or bad power to the
> pump)
> or kinked hose, can still source enough fuel to hold 30 psi at idle, while
> failing at speed, where the demand for fuel is greater. Nevertheless, you
> report this problem only at idle, with no problem while driving, so I'm
> thinking
> this is not your problem.
>
> --
> *******************************
> Jim Adney, jadney at vwtype3.org
> Madison, Wisconsin, USA
> *******************************
>
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