[T3] Late Model (dual bleeder) Caliper Assembly Bolt Question

[Jim Adney]

On 27 Sep 2019 at 10:44, Tim wrote:

> My previous post would be the max the cap screw would rate for.  Elfrink
> indicates tighten to 7 ft-lb, then to 14.5 ft-lb.

I go by the spec in the Bentley Beetle manual, which they give as 14-18 
ft-lbs. It also gives a tightening order of inner first, then outer. It's always a 
good idea to do a partial torque first, then a followup to full torque. It's 
generally considered best practice to torque lubricated threads, because that 
will give a more consistent and predictable result than dry threads. 

The early Type 1 Ghia calipers were machined from the same castings as 
our early calipers, so I think that spec is equally good for us. I use the same 
torques for our late calipers since the bolts are the same diameter and 
grade.  

Most places recommend not separating the halves, and most of the time I 
don't. It's only necessary if I need to torch out a broken bleeder valve or if 
you're trying to do a really beautiful cosmetic refurbishing. There's no need 
for a normal, functional rebuild.

I also checked my Mercedes factory service manuals from the same time 
period, as they also used ATe calipers, just to see what they suggested. 
They say not to take the halves apart, because they were tightened at the 
Teves factory "to a specific torque." That seems odd, since the Mercedes 
manuals are very good about giving excellent torque specs on everything.

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Jim Adney, jadney at vwtype3.org
Madison, Wisconsin, USA
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