[T3] Oil cooler seals.

Fri Jul 3 20:23:17 PDT 2020

the black crank seals didnt last long, but any seal really needs to be in
right and seated, and make sure the sealing surface on the flywheel is
perfect.  Ive had a few crank seals leak that I thought were perfect.

Keith

Topnotch Restorations
topnotch at nycap.rr.com
http://www.topnotchresto.com
71 Squareback  "Hothe"
65 Notchback  "El Baja Rojo"
93 RX7  "Redstur"
13 Subaru Outback "Blendin"

-----Original Message-----
From: type3-vwtype3.org [mailto:type3-vwtype3.org-bounces at lists.vwtype3.org]
On Behalf Of William Jahn
Sent: Friday, July 03, 2020 10:30 PM
To: type3 at vwtype3.org
Subject: Re: [T3] Oil cooler seals.

Keith:
 I realise you are trying to help, thank you.  Here in southern Calif
friggin Hollywood no less. My 73 was sold here and never was in winter salt
, There is no rust anywhere.
 I'm not sure what I'm going to do. I don't even recall what brand of crank
seal I used, all I recall is, I didn't have the proper seal installer. I
had a difficult time getting it in.

  I didn't have the internet as many back in 1997, that said I had no idea
where I could get the proper tools. I did see the installer in the Bentley
and made a hardwood block to tap the seal in place. I have no idea how long
these seals last,even the German Elring.

 The worst part is I can get a seal and a 36 mm socket and an inexpensive
seal installer. It's the actual removal of the engine, the time it takes. I
used to be able to walk to most stores for what my wife and I needed, now
they have changed all of this.

 If I had all of this then I would pull the engine and at the very least
replace the crank seal and oil cooler seals. The push rod tubes are fine,
they're cheap red seals. I bought all new German push rod tubes when I
rebuilt this engine.  I can live with their leaks. I am not pulling heads .
Some places make pretty good replacement tubes where you don't need to pull
the heads, not cheap. I carry tools and 3 quarts of engine oil with me and
check it often, best I can do right now.

William

On Fri, Jul 3, 2020 at 6:58 PM Keith Park <topnotch at nycap.rr.com> wrote:

> if the pushrod tubes arent straight they can wear thru and leak or rust
> thru
> in the rust belt.
>
> Keith
>
>
> Topnotch Restorations
> topnotch at nycap.rr.com
> http://www.topnotchresto.com
> 71 Squareback  "Hothe"
> 65 Notchback  "El Baja Rojo"
> 93 RX7  "Redstur"
> 13 Subaru Outback "Blendin"
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: type3-vwtype3.org [mailto:
> type3-vwtype3.org-bounces at lists.vwtype3.org]
> On Behalf Of William Jahn
> Sent: Friday, July 03, 2020 3:35 PM
> To: type3 at vwtype3.org
> Subject: Re: [T3] Oil cooler seals.
>
> I placed a round plastic container under the center of the case right up
> the area where the rear main sits. This is where I saw the drips. It's
been
> 2 days since I drove it last and today I saw a bit of oil in the
container.
> It was probably oil that was still hanging up there. I wouldn't think
using
> Valvoline VR1 SAE 40 instead of the valvoline conventional would make any
> difference as far as a leak would be concerned.
>
>  I also changed the cardboard under the engine and had an non absorbent
> piece of cardboard on the left and it had about the same amount of oil so
> there might be oil cooler seal drips. I don't see any around the heads or
> cylinder fins of cylinders to the case. I do see a few pushrod tube seals
> on the head side yet no drips could be oil blown back.
>
>  I'm going to check the torque of the lower case bolts and hope that's it.
> I really can't recall what brand of crank seal I used. I did get a Elring
> gasket set yet not the seal. I imagine the Elring seal would be the best
> one since it's silicone and not rubber. I think it was orange. I know the
> gasket set it used  had the red push rod seals probably felpro. The seal
> was separate.
>
>  If I had to replace the seal I don't have a 36mm socket and only a 1/2
> breaker bar and a 1/2" impacket wrench which was what I used to remove the
> Gland nut.
>
>  So far I've been checking the oil level and never let it fall below the
> middle between the two marks. I believe the top to lower is 1 qt.
>
>
> On Wed, Jul 1, 2020 at 1:53 PM Jim Adney <jadney at vwtype3.org> wrote:
>
> > On 1 Jul 2020 at 12:39, William Jahn wrote:
> >
> > >  I was talking about replacing the rear main seal, you know that huge
> > bolt
> > > that holds the flex plate to the crank , the one that requires
> something
> > > like 275 ft lb's .
> >
> > I think it's 225 ft-lbs. Divide 225 by your weight and that will tell
you
> > how far
> > out on a breaker bar to stand to get that torque. Don't jump on it just
> > stand
> > gently.
> >
> > The hard part is figureing out how to keep the flex plate from turning.
I
> > have
> > holes drilled in a length of steel angle that I bolt to the plate or the
> > flywheel.
> >
> > --
> > *******************************
> > Jim Adney, jadney at vwtype3.org
> > Madison, Wisconsin, USA
> > *******************************
> >
> > _______________________________________________
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