[T3] Oil cooler seals.

[William Jahn]

Keith:
 I realise you are trying to help, thank you.  Here in southern Calif
friggin Hollywood no less. My 73 was sold here and never was in winter salt
, There is no rust anywhere.
 I'm not sure what I'm going to do. I don't even recall what brand of crank
seal I used, all I recall is, I didn't have the proper seal installer. I
had a difficult time getting it in.

  I didn't have the internet as many back in 1997, that said I had no idea
where I could get the proper tools. I did see the installer in the Bentley
and made a hardwood block to tap the seal in place. I have no idea how long
these seals last,even the German Elring.

 The worst part is I can get a seal and a 36 mm socket and an inexpensive
seal installer. It's the actual removal of the engine, the time it takes. I
used to be able to walk to most stores for what my wife and I needed, now
they have changed all of this.

 If I had all of this then I would pull the engine and at the very least
replace the crank seal and oil cooler seals. The push rod tubes are fine,
they're cheap red seals. I bought all new German push rod tubes when I
rebuilt this engine.  I can live with their leaks. I am not pulling heads .
Some places make pretty good replacement tubes where you don't need to pull
the heads, not cheap. I carry tools and 3 quarts of engine oil with me and
check it often, best I can do right now.

William





On Fri, Jul 3, 2020 at 6:58 PM Keith Park <topnotch at nycap.rr.com> wrote:

> if the pushrod tubes arent straight they can wear thru and leak or rust
> thru
> in the rust belt.
>
> Keith
>
>
> Topnotch Restorations
> topnotch at nycap.rr.com
> http://www.topnotchresto.com
> 71 Squareback  "Hothe"
> 65 Notchback  "El Baja Rojo"
> 93 RX7  "Redstur"
> 13 Subaru Outback "Blendin"
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: type3-vwtype3.org [mailto:
> type3-vwtype3.org-bounces at lists.vwtype3.org]
> On Behalf Of William Jahn
> Sent: Friday, July 03, 2020 3:35 PM
> To: type3 at vwtype3.org
> Subject: Re: [T3] Oil cooler seals.
>
> I placed a round plastic container under the center of the case right up
> the area where the rear main sits. This is where I saw the drips. It's been
> 2 days since I drove it last and today I saw a bit of oil in the container.
> It was probably oil that was still hanging up there. I wouldn't think using
> Valvoline VR1 SAE 40 instead of the valvoline conventional would make any
> difference as far as a leak would be concerned.
>
>  I also changed the cardboard under the engine and had an non absorbent
> piece of cardboard on the left and it had about the same amount of oil so
> there might be oil cooler seal drips. I don't see any around the heads or
> cylinder fins of cylinders to the case. I do see a few pushrod tube seals
> on the head side yet no drips could be oil blown back.
>
>  I'm going to check the torque of the lower case bolts and hope that's it.
> I really can't recall what brand of crank seal I used. I did get a Elring
> gasket set yet not the seal. I imagine the Elring seal would be the best
> one since it's silicone and not rubber. I think it was orange. I know the
> gasket set it used  had the red push rod seals probably felpro. The seal
> was separate.
>
>  If I had to replace the seal I don't have a 36mm socket and only a 1/2
> breaker bar and a 1/2" impacket wrench which was what I used to remove the
> Gland nut.
>
>  So far I've been checking the oil level and never let it fall below the
> middle between the two marks. I believe the top to lower is 1 qt.
>
>
> On Wed, Jul 1, 2020 at 1:53 PM Jim Adney <jadney at vwtype3.org> wrote:
>
> > On 1 Jul 2020 at 12:39, William Jahn wrote:
> >
> > >  I was talking about replacing the rear main seal, you know that huge
> > bolt
> > > that holds the flex plate to the crank , the one that requires
> something
> > > like 275 ft lb's .
> >
> > I think it's 225 ft-lbs. Divide 225 by your weight and that will tell you
> > how far
> > out on a breaker bar to stand to get that torque. Don't jump on it just
> > stand
> > gently.
> >
> > The hard part is figureing out how to keep the flex plate from turning. I
> > have
> > holes drilled in a length of steel angle that I bolt to the plate or the
> > flywheel.
> >
> > --
> > *******************************
> > Jim Adney, jadney at vwtype3.org
> > Madison, Wisconsin, USA
> > *******************************
> >
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