[T3] Oil cooler seals.

[William Jahn]

When I was dealing with the issue of the IAD temp sensor. In order to just
check if all the FI connections were sound to each FI component.  I had to
pull the brain which I hadn't done since 2009.  I'll just say in a polite
manner CRIPS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!. It was easy to get the cover with the
brain out, then the harness clamp screw.  Slide the gray cover off , I
began to think, is this worth it. I had it out, did my testing , then let
the battle begin. I think I had to put it down and walk away a few times.
As old as things are even in 2009, you have to get it all back the exact
same way, especially the harness cover into the clamp and the slide on
cover , if not you just created an issue you didn't have before. That being
said I hope I never need to do it again. I forgot what an act of body
contortion this can be.

 The worst part was, after fighting to replace the runner boots and the
other assorted hoses,  knowing nothing was wrong with the wiring. None of
this changed the let me say warm lean condition. All it was in the end was
adjusting another Pressure sensor. I don't regret replacing the runner
boots and the vacuum hoses.
. It being a 73 made it even more of a battle. I wish I could fit a
female/male 20 something pin connector where the brain harness fits through
that grommet .

 All of this said , Jim is absolutely correct and this is one reason my
hope is it's just a lower case bolt and nut retorque issue and if not for
now I'll live with the small drip. I don't have rust to deal with, even so
all the battles under the car just to free the engine is still a battle I
don't have the desire to deal with. Sure if one had a hoist and a cleaning
tank it would be a lot easier. And in my case another car. If for any
reason it is the rear main and it begins pouring out oil then I am forced.
As it is now it's a small drip and doesn't seem to happen with the engine
running . I do need to be certain of that yet I don't see fresh oil drips
on the concrete floor  moving the 4 feet in and out. I've only seen them
after shutting down.  Point ,I back the car up to check the timing so the
exhaust is out past the door then I shut it down to disconnect the light ,
then I see a drop of clean oil the diameter of a quarter that was not there
before. I keep cardboard under the engine and change it out and a tin pan
under the trans. I'm going to set a clean container under the area where I
see the drip to get an idea of how much oil drips.

 I like the way the FI runs , it's consistent. Yet at the same time I can
understand why some go to old carb's. Sure they are a different battle.
This is the only FI vehicle I've even owned .

On Thu, Jul 2, 2020 at 6:20 AM Jim Adney <jadney at vwtype3.org> wrote:

> On 1 Jul 2020 at 22:08, Keith Park wrote:
>
> > you dont have to remove the FI harness to remove the engine,
> > pull the plug on the computer and push the grommet thru the body then the
> > plug will fit thru the hole and leave the entire harness in place on the
> > engine.
>
> I wouldn't do it that way. It's not the win/win you were hoping for.
>
> First of all, you have to pull the brain, which means removing the vinyl
> side
> panel in a squareback, then unscrewing the brain, pulling it out, removing
> its
> cover, and pulling out the connector, keeping in mind that putting it all
> back
> together is harder than taking it apart. Then you'll discover that the
> brain
> connector is too big to come out the body hole. So you need to take the
> connector handle off, which allows all the connector pins to slide out and
> get
> mixed up. That's something that can be dealt with, but it's likely to be
> forgotten with all the other things that you're having to keep in mind.
>
> Also, if you leave the harness on the engine, you still have the 2 power
> wires
> to disconnect, as well as wire #19 and the pressure sensor wires.
>
> At least the FI harness connections to the engine can be dealt with from
> above, where they are easy to see and easy to get to. I find the hard part
> of
> freeing up the engine is getting all the underside attachments loose:
> throttle
> cable, 2 heater cables with their insulation, 2 hot air hoses, 2 fresh air
> hoses, and 2 fuel hoses. Some of those will be badly rusted and hard to
> get
> free.
>
> --
> *******************************
> Jim Adney, jadney at vwtype3.org
> Madison, Wisconsin, USA
> *******************************
>
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