[T3] Engine oil temp?

William Jahn willjahn975 at gmail.com
Sun Jul 19 10:33:50 PDT 2020


I didn't want to start a debate whether choosing to use the factory setup
or gauges. It's a matter of personal choice. I just feel I know more of
whats going on with gauges even if they are not dead on accurate. Long ago
part of VW's testing was to connect a good mechanical gauge to the cooler
and check it , think it was based on SAE30 158* oil temp at 2,500 rpm
should be 28PSI . Lets just say as an example your hauling down the freeway
it's 100 degrees and the oil light is off . What does this really tell you.
that light will be off with 5PSI at 2,500 RPM . Now perhaps that's enough
pressure to keep the engine alive I couldn't say yet I would venture to say
it's far from ideal. Now If you actually checked the oil pressure every so
often then you would know. Nothing is a given because at any time the
pressure could drop for whatever reason. I just choose to be able to see
this. And just to point out I don't see the German oil pressure switches
offered all I see are after market hopefuls. Without testing the lights
sender you don't know at what PSI it kicks on the light. Then there is
always the light , you key on it lights start it goes out you know the
swich grounds the light at 6 PSI . The only time you actually know the
light bulb works is then or if it comes on . If it burnt out which is very
rare yet not impossible you have nothing .  I did have just the oil
pressure switch when I got my 73 and was fine with it. Then it began to
leak so I chose to add gauges. I only added a voltmeter at first that
doesn't affect the gen light.

 I'm sure there are more VW's on the road with just the factory lights
doing just fine. A 66 bug I owned just had the light the engine leaked oil
like mad and I kept 3 quarts with me and not checking the level one day the
light came on I pulled  over had to add 2 quarts. Didn't hurt the engine
yet would have if I didn't see the light.

 The point I'm trying to make is yes VW had their  reasons for just a light
and that's fine. I just feel there are better options.

On Sun, Jul 19, 2020 at 9:51 AM William Jahn <willjahn975 at gmail.com> wrote:

> Yes he did , and I understand how this works. And this has to do with oil
> weight and of course bearing clearance. I use SAE 40 even when I rebuilt
> this engine and on a hot freeway run I'd come to a stop and the oil light
> would come on. This is why I didn't go down to SAE 30 , 30 may be fine
>
> On Sun, Jul 19, 2020 at 9:42 AM Mike Fisher <fisherfarms at gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> Jim told us that oil pressure isn't important.  It's the oil flow?
>>
>> On Sun, Jul 19, 2020 at 9:38 AM William Jahn <willjahn975 at gmail.com>
>> wrote:
>>
>> > The only thing I don't quite understand is on what basis has anyone
>> tested
>> > these gauges to say for certain they are not accurate or at least very
>> > close to being so. The only true way to know would be to use a good
>> screw
>> > in oil pressure gauge on the cooler fitting and check that against what
>> the
>> > electric VDO setup reads.
>> >
>> >  I feel as long as the wiring to the senders and gauges is done properly
>> > and the grounds are done properly they will be as good as they can get.
>> >  I know my old oil pressure gauge had issues because just with the key
>> on
>> > the gauge read 10 PSI and the sender should read 10 OHM engine off , my
>> old
>> > one read from 9.5 ohm to over 95 ohm just by tapping it with my fingers
>> .
>> > The new one stays at 10 ohm engine off . It reads completely different
>> from
>> > the old ones.  Before this I even replaced the wiring and put the
>> ground on
>> > the battery to the rear seat wall ground . None of that changed a
>> thing. I
>> > added inline fuses to the gauges between the fuse box and battery
>> positive
>> > on the gauges just in case and use a relay for the power source. When I
>> > first installed them direct to a spare key on fuse on a 73 that's #12
>> they
>> > didn't seem to read proper so I used a 12 volt relay used fuse 9 hot all
>> > the time that powers that insane key buzzer for the feed source then
>> fuse
>> > 12 to the relay coil and that fixed the issue.
>> >
>> > On Sun, Jul 19, 2020 at 8:56 AM Hal Sullivan <tristessa at tristessa.us>
>> > wrote:
>> >
>> > > On 7/18/20 11:55 PM, William Jahn wrote:
>> > > >   I  can't recall a car or truck I ever had that didn't have at the
>> > very
>> > > > least a water temp and oil pressure gauge as well as a light or two.
>> > > >
>> > > I inherited an '81 Ford Escort from my grandmother in the late '90s,
>> > > back before our first ACVW.  It had a speedometer, a gas gauge and
>> some
>> > > idiot lights.
>> > >
>> > >
>> > > I'll take an electric oil pressure gauge over no gauge any day of the
>> > > week.  Even without absolute accuracy, they're useful for spotting
>> > > problems before they really become PROBLEMS .
>> > >
>> > > _______________________________________________
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