[T3] Air compressor ?

William Jahn willjahn975 at gmail.com
Tue Jul 28 13:13:24 PDT 2020


I removed the tube and used the body of the new 1/2" compression fitting
then tightened the nut and checked until the ferrule was snug to the copper
on both ends. For some reason even though it felt they were tight enough I
could still rotate the ferrules. Then once I put the pipe back in place I
found I needed to align the tube again between the head and check valve. I
did this until it fit then tightened both nuts and had no more leaks.

 The only issue is if I run the compressor until it fills the tank then it
will kick in three times before tripping the power strip 15 amp circuit
breaker . The 120 volt motor needs 18.5 amp and the building circuit
breaker is 20 amp and I don't want to trip that so I have to live with the
15 amp breaker. It used to work so perhaps when the check valve was leaking
causing the compressor to trip my 15 amp breaker the breaker has become
weak . I knew the check valve was bad so I used to drain the tank to 10PSI
then turn it on and many times forgot to flip the compressors auto switch
off .

 I have other power strips I could try yet I always drain the tank to keep
the moisture out and only use it to fill my car's tires and use a blow gun
to blow the oil sump screen after washing it.

 The pressure switch was set to 100 PSI , I adjusted it down to 79 PSI so
it does not run as long . I brought it back up to 100 PSI and it works yet
I get less cycles before the breaker trips and I don't need 100 PSI unless
I use my 1/2" impact wrench or the 3/8" or 3/8" and 1/4" air ratchets ,
haven't used those in a long time. I just use hand tools. This sear
compressor was built in 9/78 and everything still works. I had to pull the
head when I got it because the fellow I traded a smaller compressor for
this one lived out where there was sand and didn't have the 2 air filter
pads in place and I needed to get the sand out of the reed valves,piston
tops and tank  . I did work yet I didn't care for sand in there.  It's a
two cylinder 1 1/2 HP motor 12 gallon tank.

On Sun, Jul 26, 2020 at 8:21 PM William Jahn <willjahn975 at gmail.com> wrote:

> Both the old and new copper pipe walls measure .040"
>
> On Sun, Jul 26, 2020 at 6:27 PM Mike Fisher <fisherfarms at gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> Force a tapered steel punch down it to get it round again.
>>
>> On Sun, Jul 26, 2020 at 6:21 PM William Jahn <willjahn975 at gmail.com>
>> wrote:
>>
>> > The tube I got is a replacement and it's the same wall thickness as the
>> > original. The only issue I see is for some reason the tube is not
>> perfectly
>> > round . It is 1/2" OD and 3/8" ID . The leak is not real bad yet I'd
>> prefer
>> > there were no leaks. The Unloader releases the head pressure. I don't
>> need
>> > the head to check valve tube to help out.
>> >
>> >  If I could just take a 3/8" drill bit shank or whatever bit that fits
>> and
>> > tap it in 3/4" it might round the copper and create a seal between the
>> > ferrules and copper tube. Since the ferrules are in place they would
>> keep
>> > the OD of the copper from expanding. I don't really want to try to
>> tighten
>> > the fittings more and end up with a ferrule that collapses the OD of the
>> > copper like the very old original one was at the head end. I bought a
>> new
>> > 1/2" compression fitting because I needed the nuts and ferrules I could
>> use
>> > the body , fit the new pipe with the ferrule then try to fit a 3/8"
>> drill
>> > bit shank  in to make  certain the ferrule remains round. I would smooth
>> > the bit and taper the end a bit more and lube it so as not to destroy
>> the
>> > inside of the copper.
>> >
>> >  As is livable it's better than before. The new replacement copper is
>> > really tough to bend like the old one was. I tightened it finger tight
>> then
>> > 1/2 turn more and it leaked and gave it another 1/2 turn same thing.
>> This
>> > was what I found on you tube sites. I normally finger tight then use a
>> > wrench till it feels snug and never crushed the copper or had leaks. The
>> > original tube at the head was tightened so much that the ferrule was
>> barely
>> > more than the copper OD and I could see the ferrule past the nut. I
>> never
>> > noticed this until I replaced the check valve and the check valve end
>> was
>> > fine . The fellow I traded for it might have cranked down on the heads
>> > fitting to cure a leak. I know the new copper is not round yet it
>> measures
>> > the same OD as the original . Once I realized it leaked I removed it to
>> see
>> > why and found the ferrule made contact all around except one small area
>> . I
>> > doubt more tightening will help.
>> >
>> >  This stuff drives me nuts when you get a new pipe and find it has a
>> small
>> > flat spot and I slide a new ferrule down the entire pipe and it has that
>> > slight flat spot the entire length.
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > On Sun, Jul 26, 2020 at 5:44 PM Jim Adney <jadney at vwtype3.org> wrote:
>> >
>> > > One thing to keep in mind is that copper tubing comes in different
>> wall
>> > > thicknesses. The thinner wall stuff is not suitable for any of the
>> > ferrule
>> > > style
>> > > sealing methods, because the wall will just collapse rather than being
>> > > stiff
>> > > enough for the ferrule to bite into it and seal.
>> > >
>> > > I learned this lesson many years ago, when i was working on a small
>> > system
>> > > that had to be helium leak-tight. I could make a leak tight joint at
>> one
>> > > end of
>> > > the tube, but as soon as I did ANYTHING to the other end, the movement
>> > > would open up a leak on the first end. The thing I was working on was
>> a
>> > > network of maybe 20 connections in a couple square feet, so until I
>> > > switched
>> > > to heavy wall copper, I was just chasing one leak after another.
>> > >
>> > > I finally found recommendations from Parker and Swagelock regarding
>> the
>> > > min. wall thicknesses for various diameter tubes that could be
>> reliably
>> > > sealed. Look here:
>> > >
>> > > https://www.swagelok.com/downloads/webcatalogs/EN/MS-01-107.PDF
>> > >
>> > > Read the section about gas service on page 2, as well as the chart on
>> > page
>> > > 7 regarding copper tubing. The note at the bottom of page 7 seems to
>> > > indicate that the minimum wall thickness for air in 1/2" copper tubing
>> > > would
>> > > be 0.049".
>> > >
>> > >
>> > > --
>> > > *******************************
>> > > Jim Adney, jadney at vwtype3.org
>> > > Madison, Wisconsin, USA
>> > > *******************************
>> > >
>> > > _______________________________________________
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>> --
>> Eugene, Oregon
>>
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